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Acco 2350g What is the problem with a intermittant dash board display on these trucks? I suspect the fault is within the dash board assembly and maybe a faulty connection between the board and the plug assemblies. Have 2 trucks with same problem. anyone else ?

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Jag S Type won't start,alarm sounds lights flash fault messages

try taking the negative off the battery for 20 secs then put it back on and try it

Posted on Feb 18, 2009

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SOURCE: 2000 Daewoo Lanos intermittant misfire trouble code

check fuel filter and check fuel for water or contaminents
then check fuel pressure with gauge also while driving
may have pin hole in leads - spray water with salt solution over HT leads while engine running and then rev to see or here spark jump(missfire)
recheck spark plugs - did you crack any on installation/removal/installation?
what are the codes and description if stored?
what is engine live data parameters like do they look normal (right specs for range/operation)?

Posted on Aug 05, 2009

  • 165 Answers

SOURCE: clutch cable connected to pedal assembly broken or disconnected

I have never seen a cable operated clutch on this model, only hydrolic, with a master cylinder and slave.

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

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SOURCE: 95 s10 blazer 4.3

Your blazer has to have 55 psi or better to start and starting fluild is possible to flood the plugs now their too wet to fire. Sit awhile and they should dry on thier own. The injectores won't past fuel below about 40 PSI while cranking the voltage to the pump or the pump ground is going away (starters not grounded good enought and the ground goes positive as the car cranks. Put jumper cables from another running car and coonect them right at the starter ( at least the ground, connect it right o the case of the starter, Pos/ can be connected at the battery). sure your battery may be toast and still crank a good starter but the voltage below 10 while cranking may not close the fuel pump relay al or the ingtion module. I've had this problem and sometimes I've found the ingtion module bad and I had it tested at the store and they said it was good but as I sent it in to be tested they sent a new one anyway and the new module would run it and the tested good old one won't start the car. BUT. Everytime it goes back to the quaily of the fuel pump and I've bought a lot of bad ones for GM products that were made by Master and Airtex. I've never had a problem with a Delphi. As long as the crank voltage is good jump it to make sure and the pump wire while cranking is more than 11 volts and it still has less than 55 PSI you take the pump back get another one or demand the delphi, and if they want you to put in another aixtex ask them to pay you to put it in. Bet you'll get the Delphi. The return level is high on the Airtex and Master pumps is high and the parts guy your buying from knowns this unless he's still wet behind the ears, and plain just does'nt know. Orginal equipment in this area keeps the comebacks away and I'm a pro. unless the customer makes me put in the junk pump I don't even give them a choice.

Posted on Sep 23, 2010

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SOURCE: clicking noise from dash near

I doubt if you have a fan problem. More than likely you have a bad actutor motor. There are 2 small electric actuator motors under the dash. The temperture door actuator moves the air temperature door, which controls the temperature of the air coming from either the a/c or heater vents. The mode actuator (which is probably the one you hear clicking) controls the mode of operation, or more simply, which vents the air will be coming out of. When the internal gears of the mode actuator fail and start slipping, they make a loud repetative "clicking" sound, which is what you are hearing. Another symptom that may or may not accompany this situation is a longer than usual wait time for your mode selection to occur. So to sum up, a loud repetative clicking sound from the center of the dashboard possibly accompanied by a longer than usual wait time for your ac,heat or defrost mode to occur, usually indicates a failing mode door actuator.

Posted on Sep 20, 2011

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Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test
  • The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A diagnostic tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
  • The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
  • The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
  • To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
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  • To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
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