Question about 2005 Chrysler Sebring Conv
Battery has gone dead several times over the last month but not consistently, I replaced battery yesterday this morning it was totally dead. when I connected battery charger there was quite a load on it and could hear motor near top of motor. could this pe the idle air pump? The theard i read here is talking about the secondary air pump relay. First of all SAP is near tank I believe and I am not so sure a relay can have intermittent problems of this kind.
There is a procedure for finding a battery draw like that.
You will need a digital ammeter and a jumper wire with clips on the ends to do this.
First rig any door switches so you can have a door open without triggering the interior lights and unplug the hood light. Remove one battery cable and attach the meter in series between the battery cable and battery post. Take the jumper wire and also attach it the same way. Leave the jumper wire on for at least 10 minutes to expire all the automatic timers. Now remove the jumper wire and read the meter. Anything over 50ma is too much draw. The way you locate this is to start removing fuses one at a time until the meter drops to normal level. This will be the circuit with something staying on. Determine what components are part of that circuit and check them individually until the problem is isolated.
Posted on May 08, 2014
Testimonial: "I have located the fuse in the under hood fuse block which powers the device. I don't what is was running as the lid does not have the any of the fuses or relays identified and being intermittent is hard to physically locate."
Charge a dead battery with the cables off
Then have a repair shop hear your story
& work on finding the issues
Posted on May 08, 2014
Testimonial: "Not a bad idea only it is intermittent there is no rhyme m or reason for when this occurs. If the lid to the fuse box cover under the hood was labeled it might tell what is running when this does occur. Could this be something the PCM self diagnostic tool could cause?"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is obviously a draw from somewhere, and if your dealer doesn't have a mechanic who knows how to narrow it down to the circuit causing the problem, then I'd question there ability. With that said, when all else fails, you simply remove negative connection off battery first, then positive. Take a 12 volt test light & secure one end to the + clamp or connector, and the other end to the battery+ post. Now connect your negative back up to the battery as it was. If that test light, lights up, there is a draw. It will be brighter, the more draw there is. Your going to have some, just from your radio memory alone, but now comes the fun part. All you do is pull the fuses one at a time, if light goes out, or dim's you've found a draw. When you have a real hard one to narrow down, you make sure you know where they all go back to, whether by your map at fuse box, or your own notes, and you pull them all out, and light should go out for sure, if not, there is another circuit or panel, or relay drawing the current. If it goes out, you start putting them back in one at a time, and when the light comes back on bright, you found the circuit. Mark that one down, pull the fuse back out, light off, now do the rest that you haven't checked yet, just to see if there is more than one draw causing the problem, if there is, mark it down, pull it out & continue on until all done. Now you/they narrowed it down or isolated the circuit causing the problem.
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
SOURCE: overheating problems
The first thing that I would check would be the resistance of the engine coolant temperature sensor, This is the sensor that tells the computer how hot the engine is and allows the fan to kick on when the temperature reaches a certain threshold.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
I would look at the alternator. I had a grand am that would do that to me, even with a brand new battery. The alternator output wasn't able to run the vehicle and charge the battery. Alternators are picky things, especially being in Canada (which I assume from the KM), the hot and cold cycles don't play nicely with the brushes and core. I'd have the alternator checked and replaced if needed.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
the fuel pump comes on when you turn the key on the starter comes on when you turn all the way to start so i would think the short is in the fuel pump if it blows by just turning the key on
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
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