1998 Honda Civic Logo
r
ron justman Posted on May 08, 2014
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Honda civic troubleshooting

Will not start, when you turn key to start there is a relay that clicks. all the bells and whistles work.. can i check for fuse? if yes where do I look for fuse box?

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67midget

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  • Expert 279 Answers
  • Posted on May 08, 2014
67midget
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It takes a lot less power to run all the goodies than it does to start your car up.Do you have a battery charger? or can you borrow one to charge the battery up overnight. You might even try a boost.Check the connections at the battery and clean them if they are dirty.This doesn't sound like a fuse to me.Try the simple stuff first and then go from there.Let me know how you make out.good luck

Testimonial: "I have done all this and still get nothing."

  • 67midget May 09, 2014

    If the battery is good, I think you have to look at the starter solenoid which if memory serves me is on the stater.Check the ground connection to the motor as well.Can you borrow another battery to try? Sometimes a battery will read a good charge on a meter but when you put it under load it folds.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 21 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 14, 2008

SOURCE: 94 honda civic not starting

is there any noise from starter at all?

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Anonymous

  • 82 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 10, 2008

SOURCE: 1991 civic fuse box diagram

1992 civic but this is probably the same as yours. http://autoforums.carjunky.com/autof...A_CIVIC_P3020/

Anonymous

  • 1498 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 07, 2009

SOURCE: 1996 honda civic wont start

Hi Meadors,

The clicking sound you heard most likely the starter solenoid engaging the starter. Only in this case it's failing to engage the starter. This is a classic symptom of a low battery. Here's why.

In a perfect world, when you turn the key to start:

  1. the solenoid is fed 12VDC which engages an electromagnetic coil inside it.
  2. A spring loaded steel piston inside this coil reacts to the magnetic field. It is pulled against the spring. By itself this sounds like a loud decisive CLICK.
  3. The movement of the piston simultaneously pushes the starter gear into the flywheel and sends power to the starter via heavy duty contacts. The starter draws a lot of power.
  4. The starter spins, turns the engine, the engine starts, life is good.
  5. When the key is released, the solenoid disengages, the spring pushes the piston back, the starter gear disengages from the flywheel.
In our world, when you turn the key to start:
  1. The solenoid which draws it's share of power engages as before. Click.
  2. As the starter tries to spin, the power available is insufficient. It draws all remaining power, there isn't enough left to keep the solenoid active and it turns off.
  3. Since the starter isn't drawing power anymore, the solenoid re-engages and the cycle starts over. Click.
  4. The cycle repeats. Click. A series of rapid clicks. Same page?
While a dead battery is the prime suspect, there can be other causes. Things to do:

  • Check belts, specifically on the alternator.
  • Terminal connections clean and tight.
  • In the 'Let's not over look the obvious' department: Battery voltage?
  • Get a jump. Try a jump start.
  • If a jump gets you going, it is either the battery not holding a charge or the alternator not providing one.
Even new batteries can be bad off the shelf. Especially if they have been on that shelf for a while. They may show the voltage but not the amps. This is called a 'Surface Charge'.

If you don't have a voltmeter, what you need to do now is visit an auto parts store (not a shop). Most (in the hope of making a sale) will provide free testing of batteries and charging systems.

What you need is called a "Load Test" on the battery. It simulates the load of an engine being started. This will confirm the battery is good or bad.

Then with the car running, they need to check the voltage to the battery (they will know this). If it's not above +13VDC, the alternator is bad or not connected correctly.

And if it doesn't start, what better place to be?

Let me know what they and you find out by commenting.
Best regards
Mike

Anonymous

  • 4669 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 22, 2009

SOURCE: 1990 Honda Civic LX-1.5 engine. No power to fuel pump and no spar

Ignition switch?

Anonymous

  • 64 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 10, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 honda civic ex

if its a standard check the clutch pedal switch if its an auto check the neutral safety switch and check the fuse in the fusebox that says CRANK

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If this will not work, then you need to troubleshoot the starter, from the fuse up to solenoid. Might be anything from a bad fuse, bad relay, bad solenoid, corroded starter copper contacts, or a bad starter. Hope this will help.
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ok, this is a commom problem with this 92 hondas,

it may be the pump fuel relay, which is under the dash on the driver side by the fuse panel.

here is a way to determine that.

when you turn the key on the on position

do you hear the fuel pump running while the engine light is on, and does the pump stop running afteer the engine light goes off?

if you do hear the pump running then it means that fuel pump is working fine ( since it way just replaced), but if you don't hear it running while the check engine light is on ( about 2 seconds) chances are the fuel pump relay is not working as it should.


also there are clicks that have to be heard on the starting process.

1 when you turn key to on possition

2 when the check engine light goes off( a click has to be heard just after it goes off)

3 after the car starts

If you don't hear this clicks, try to get your ear close the location of the fuel pump relay( near the fuse panel under the dash).


the fuse relay is just a bunch of circuits soldered, so you can get it to someone who knows how to solder and fix it.

or just get a replacement one at any junkyard. ( cheapp)

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