Question about 2000 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

I am trying to find out about the clunking noise

When I was traveling going up hill my car started to make this really loud clunking noise like metal to metal. When I started to go down hill the car seemed fine no noise at all. Then I came to a complete stop and started again the sound came back. I changed the front cv axle all the u joints the oil in the differential. I also took off the front drive shaft and drove the sound was still there. Then I took off the rear drive shaft the sound was still there. I was thinking could it be the bearings in the rear diff. Can someone help I'm running out of money buying all these thing that the mechanic tell me what is causing the problem.

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2 Answers

Why would you change parts on a guess
& something a mechanic told you?

If that mechanic did not go for a test drive
with both of you driving,then you don't do
business there.

First you have to find a problem,anything

Removing either drive shaft wasn't a bad idea, at
some point,but you have to continue on.

I would be leaning toward the transfer case for the noise

Your not saying it gets louder as you increase speed or it can
only be heard at 35 or higher & goes away at some point.

Has to be the trans or transfer,just a guess on my part,
based on what you have said & done so far.

Posted on May 08, 2014

Testimonial: "I could only go 10 mph not more then that and the clunking noise would get louder forgot to mention that. I took the mechanics word being that I explained to him the same thing I'm explaining to you. That he was a mechanic from ford. Another thing I was trying to look for the rear differential bearing kit. I got the number off the tag from the differential to order the kit the number reads 8.8 with a ratio of 3.73. I looked on ebay and searched ford dealers there was no match. There was only 8.8 with a ratio of 3.55 how could that be we gave the ford dealers the number off the tag that was to the the rear diff."

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  • 45 Answers

Have you checked the hub bearings? seems the most likely.Also have you checked that there's no grit or something in or around the brake pads or shoes.

Posted on May 08, 2014

Testimonial: "We took off the two back tires. The only thing we could find was the passenger tire was really hard to come off we had to pound it with a hammer then the brake pad on that same side was missing a screw on the caliper. Everything else look ok with the hub."

  • Hugh Mckernan
    Hugh Mckernan May 09, 2014

    When the wheel is lifted off the ground & you try to rock the wheel with your hands can you see any movement or hear any noise? Is the hub boot intact? Could some dirt have got into the bearing or the grease got out? Both would cause the bearing to disintegrate.


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1998 ford explorer font end

Has the car been in an accident? You may have to replace the upper ball joints as well. And you will have to get an alignment after that. I would get the tire set correctly before I started changing bearings. Of course it may be that the bearing is so bad that that is what is causing the wheel to lean so badly?
With the car jacked up, can you move the wheel laterally - it should be very tight.

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

  • 196 Answers

SOURCE: ABS Light Came on and Loud Whining in Rear End?

Well you can remove the sensor in the diff and make sure that looks ok they g obad quiet often also woulnd not hurt too remove the rear diff cover and inspect the rear end if it is whining and you dont see anything wrong i would refill it with lucas oil/grease and start praying check the pinion too and see if it has any play in it

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

  • 819 Answers

SOURCE: CV joint noise

this sounds like a normal condition. sorry i cant give a real great technical explanation why, but it is. are you jacking up one side of the vehicle only? you will find that if both wheels are off the ground or if one is still on the ground, it will act completely different. just the way the final drive is set up.

Posted on Nov 29, 2009

  • 149 Answers

SOURCE: growling noise from front of my taurus while

Cv joints will usually pop when they are worn out. I would suspect that its the powersteering, check the pumps fluid level and the tension on the belt.
good luck dont forget to rate

Posted on Jan 07, 2010

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: CV joint questions

A c/v joint is pretty much just a better universal joint in that it permits more flex range than a simple cross. (like a driveshaft universal) If it were possible to make a universal with eight caps instead of four, it would have similar range but would be impossible to install.
Few suv's used in street applications have a true locking front differential as that makes steering very difficult on turns (outer wheel needs to turn faster than one on inside of turn as the outside "circle" is larger.) Most suv's have an "open" differential that permits easy turning. In reality most 4x4's only have two wheels driving the vehicle at any one time. Most optional setups have a positraction diff ( also known as a limited slip as it allows for slippage so wheels can change speed on turns)at the rear giving you a total of three wheels pushing. Off-road guys will often install a posi at the front, or a more radical approach is a "spool" that is 100% locked all the time, making street driving nearly impossible. Your front differential is "locked" or actually connected to the drivetrain by way of a transfer case that does exactly that...It transfers power to the differentials. On some it does this automatically by way of a viscous coupler inside the unit, or others that are engaged by the driver by either an electric servo or a direct lever.
How far you turn the front wheels determines how much stress you are putting on the c/v joint. Most vehicles have a "stop" bolt somewhere on the suspension that stops the front end from turning further than it should. Most times the steering pump will begin to whine as you near the limit.
C/v joints should last a very long time. Generally they fail because though they are internally designed very well, they are protected by a simple rubber boot. Once that boot is torn, split or otherwise compromised, road dirt enters and quickly destroys the joint.
Once you find a split boot you can almost bet that the joint is in one stage or another of failure. The price of the boot is often about one third the price of a complete joint or even a replacement axle with joints installed. therefore changing just the boot is foolish.
Symptoms of a bad joint are clicking binding or vibration from the area of the joint, but, sometimes vibration can be caused by wheel balance or a failed hub bearing. Making good diagnosis important.

Posted on Jan 20, 2010

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