Question about 2003 Kia Spectra
Putting on the AC causes power to be taken from the engine, and that is quite usual (unless it's taking excessive power but if there are no noises and it's working ok that's unlikely).
That will slow down the engine (similar to switching on your heated rear window whilst idling)
What you are seeing is the idle is probably a bit slow, and it's too slow with AC on. Have a diagnostic run to check idle speed and mixture at low revs.
Posted on May 08, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2001 Kia Optima over heating
I figured this out and fixed it on my 2001 Optima. Mine was an electrical problem, not an overheating problem. The problem shows up when there is a heavier than normal load on the electrical system. For most of us, this is when the air conditioner is running full-blast on a hot summer day. However, it was also occuring when I ran the heater full blast. The heater running full-blast should have lowered the temperature, not raise it. So I tested the coolant temp while the gauge was showing it overheating. The coolant temp was not increasing, but the gauge showed that it was. It is caused by a bad ground connection. Another test you can do to see if your problem is the same as mine is this. As soon as the engine is showing overheating, pull over, park the car and turn off the engine. Immediately start the engine again and see what the temp gauge shows. If it still shows hot, you'll know you've really got overheating coolant. If it goes back to normal range, you'll know it's just a bad ground connection. Turning off the engine eliminates the resistance in the electrical system that has beeen building up and causing an erroneous high temp reading.
To fix: Either find and clean ground connections throughout the vehicle until it fixes it, or do what I did. A mechanic at the Kia dealer showed me this. I ran a new wire from an empty bolt-hole on the top of the engine to a bolt into the frame behind the engine. I only added a 6 inch wire and a new bolt into the top of the engine. The bolt into the frame was already there, so I just removed it, put the wire under it, and replaced the bolt. It created a redundant ground that prevented the build-up of resistance that caused the erroneous temp reading. It was a 5 minute fix and it has never done it again. Kia knows about this problem and they put out a post to their shops on how to fix it.
Posted on Oct 01, 2008
if you can some how manage to get it opened, spray some lubracant on the button inside the door. if not you'll need to replace the release cable.
Posted on Dec 01, 2008
The thing is your doing the timing belt the water pump is right their with it . it should cost you much more at all besides the cost of the water pump. When doing a timing belt I have a rule that I go by The timing belt/seals =cam , crank , any pulley & tensioner & water pump all get replaced at the same time. I did a t-belt on a Audi A-8 very complex whole front of car has to come off as well, he didnt want to do w-pump & thermostat his thermostat was their as well not even a month later the water pump gave out he had to pay double the price because he didnt want to do it when I had it apart the first time. And make sure mechanic is ase certified . good luck
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
Under driver and passenger seats are wires that go to seat belt anchors.These are tensioner wires.Unplug the wires from the plug under the seat.clean and replace.Doing this while the ignition is turned off.Then turn ignition back on.In 90% of the time this is your problem.Constant movement of seat causes this or rear passengers kicking plugs off.Good luck phil.
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
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Here are some of the causes of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
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