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Re: 1996 jimmy continually replace distributer cap and...
Look into the throttle body intake.
remove the tubing to the throttle body at there at the butterfly plate.
thats the plate that opens and close with the gas pedal.
look there and see if there is a lot of black carbon buildup right at the bottom of the throttle plate.use a good brand carb cleaner and spray it in there a little bit. use a very clean rag and wip it clean.
everything in there should be very nive and clean.the carbon will tend to buildup at the idle position and cause the engine to die at an idle and run rough.make sure everything is done nice and clean and do not get any any any trash in the tbi intake system.
using super unleaded will prevent this from being a problem again ever.
hope this helps
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Please don't hurt more walls! Just kidding..what a problem. If you have the correct sensor installed and it is working correctly (check with multimeter for change in resistance when cold, warm, hot) then the signal getting to the computer must be getting scrambled in some way. Check the wire connection where you clip it onto the sensor. Use a multi meter and check for continuity there and back further along the wire.
if you can't trace the wire all the way to the computer, you may have to do a bodge job..rig a wire into the cab with an on off switch.
Only to be used when the engine is warm..flick switch to off, start truck, flick switch back to reengage sensor.......
think of it as an unusual theft deterrent !
The only thing I can think, besides coincidence, is the plug wires, you must have crossed one or two, I would go over the timing order again just to be sure. Or the cap is not seated on, Check it out, hope this helps.
You have a vacuum line off somewhere, or the egr valve is leaking at idol, or you have manifold vacuum hooked up to the egr valve, make sure the vacuum line going to the egr valve has no vacuum at idol, only during acceleration.
moisture in your cap causes oxidation. You should check to make sure the seal for you distributor between the distributor and the cap is still good.
Also a faulty ignition system such as a problematic coil or high resistance in your ignition wires can lead to ignition related problems. Doing a partial tune doesn't always work. Do the wires, plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, PVC valve and depending on the mileage the ignition coil.
The wire harness to the fuel pump sending unit may be going bad which is common to happen. The harness is around $15.00 and it runs from the frame to the top of the gas tank. The other thing to is the fuel pump sending unit may be going bad and the float in side that measures the amount of gas, has gone bad and the unit may need to be replaced. As for the rough idle, it cold be related to the fuel pump starting to go bad and the fuel pressure is just marginal to keeping the engine running. The fuel pressure during cold start should be 62-65 PSI and should drop about 5 PSI when the engine is running. The other thing to that would casue a rough idle, would be time for a tune up, "spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter"
The choke on your vehicle is a computer controled fuel system. It is usually a fuel pump but sometimes a Distributor cap and rotor problem. I would first check the distributor cap and rotor. Look for white corrosion in the cap and in the bottom of the distributor. If you see the corrosion in the bottom of the distributor clean it out with brake cleaner.The Coil wire some times fails causing a hard start situation. I suggest checking these things before doing any thing with the fuel pump. I would also replace the fuel filter and spark plugs if you do end up replacing the cap and rotor.