Question about 1998 Isuzu Rodeo
I have a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo that has a creaking/thumping/knocking noise when I turn... more prominent with sharp turns, but it will do it sometimes with normal turns. I thought the issue was the front CV axles. The noise is very distinctly coming from the front end, and I can feel the knocking under my foot every time I turn and it makes the sound I just recently replaced both front CV axles, but the noise is still there. It did seem to go away briefly, maybe a day or two, and then it started doing it again. Does anyone know what it could be?
Sounds like a ball joint seeing that the cv joints were replaced, have you had it aligned?
Posted on May 07, 2014
Testimonial: "Yes. It was aligned at the same time the cv joints were replaced. However, on my way to work this evening, it seemed to have gone away again. It'll be quiet for a day or two and then it'll start creaking/knocking again."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You didn't say whether you had a V6 engine or a 4cyl. Here is the procedure for a V6.
It sounds like he moved the cam shaft independently of the crankshaft or other camshaft so you will need to do all these procedures:
1. Turn the crankshaft until the mark on the spocket is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing (the mark is on the driver's side at 90 degrees to the sprocket itself).
2. Back off the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/8 turn to ensure the pistons aren't at top dead center. This gives the valves room to move without hitting the piston.
3. Turn the passenger's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place with the alignment mark on the camshaft pully is pretty close to being lined up with the mark on the engine head.
4. Turn the driver's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place but this won't be perfectly lined up with the mark but will be about an 1/8 turn off from the mark. Then line it up by hand.
5. The idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys should be installed on the engine but the tenioner pulley adjuster (it is a little cylinder with a rod coming out of it that is held in place by 2 bolts) should be removed.
6. Place the new belt on the crankshaft first. Be sure the arrows on the belt point in a clockwise direction. If you have a belt with lines and dots then the lines will line up with all markings that you have lined up together. The dots should line up at the 270 degree point on the crankshaft (opposite of the lines and the markings).
7. Loop the belt around the tensioner pulley, around the passenger's side cam, under the waterpump, around the driver's side cam, and finally around the idler pulley. Check all alignments.
8. Put the tesioner adjuster in a vise and squeeze it together until you can place a small drill bit or allen wrench through the holes to keep it compressed.
9. This is the tricky part. You will need to install the tensioner adjuster and that will require some moving of the belt to allow enough play to get the adjuster in place. This may move the passenger's side alignment. If so, you will need to try it again. I find that if you move passenger's side alignment mark clockwise by one tooth of the sprocket, then when you go to put the tensioner in place it lines up. You may find other tricks to overcome this challenge.
10. Once you think you have everything lined up. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft sprocket 2 full turns. Listen closely and feel for any hard resistance as you do this to determine if the pistons are hitting the valves. If you believe they are hitting each other thenrepeat the adjustment procedure. Not doing this can ruin the valves or more.
11. If everything seems OK. remove the drill bit or allen wrench from the tension adjuster. Perform step 10 again for one final check.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
You don't say how many miles or give a service history, but, that said I would check the timing belt and tensioner. When tensioner goes bad is often is reported as a loud knock or tick. Usually most evident at low RPMs. Another low cost try is to use a can of seafoam in the oil now, run it a few miles, then change it for a high detergent, low viscousity oil and drive it a while to see if the lifters clean up. engine tick is very common, generally due to lifters oil passages getting sludged up a little for 2nd gen 3.2l's
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
Remove low pressure and high pressure hoses (this one could be hard to break loose). You might want to have an oil pan handy, to capture the oil. Disconnect electrical sensor. Remove the bolt that holds belt tension adjustment plate. And finally remove the bolt that holds the pump in place. It is bolted from the back and located at the right lower corner of the pump if you are facing the front of the car. Remove the pump assy. I could not remove belt pulley at home, no matter how hard I tried. Ended up taking it to an automotive shop and they removed it in no time, using one of those "pneumatic impact guns". Assemble new pump. Fill the reservoir with PS oil. Make sure both of the front wheels are off the ground, start the engine and slowly spin the steering wheel back and forth for about 5 minutes or untill screeching sound stops and the liquid in the reservoir stops foaming. That will bleed any air that is in the system. Don't go all the way to the end of stroke. Good luck.
Posted on May 09, 2009
Do not try to get the cv axle out ot the axle housing. It is a major operation. Remove boot and disconnect the inner cv joint and save about five hours of time. The choice is yours ,boot or reman cv axle. You will need to take the reman. axle apart to install it though and some new clamps. Not a simple operation.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
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