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I have a 1978 Chevy c10 with a 305 two barrel carb. The entire bottom end has oil all over it but it doesn't look like much of a leak when I park it. Could it be the rear main seal? I put seal conditioner in but the problem persists. Also, when the automatic transmission shifts into second gear it jerks really hard. I have to pretty much gun it to get it to shift smoothly. Is the timing off or could it be something else? Please help. I'm on a very limited income and am afraid its a huge problem or will become a huge problem.

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Hi, sounds like your gaskets and seals may be original to your engine, could be leak down from your valve cover gaskets, if it is your engine seals, a small 40 dollar gasket rebuild kit should do the trick, lotsa room to drop your oil pan, just have to loosen and move the y-pipe out of the way. while your under there rotate by hand your drveshaft, to see how much slop there is, if it rotates more than 1/2 inch or you hear clicking at either universal you will be changing those too, but i think your transmission is getting tired, check to make sure your getting proper fluid level, a bright pink or light brown is good, not dark brown or black and make sure you have, from the intake down to the vacuum, if nothing else, rebuild or replace, about 100 at the wrecking yard

Posted on May 12, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 5 speed manual transmission really hard to shift/change gears

The transmition is not the problem. The cables that run from the shifter to the transmition are the culpret. I recently rescued my wife from the road when the linkage broke on our VUE. I purchased new connectors and cables from the dealership and replaced them. For those that have the proper knowledge and skill set, you can replace them yourself. Others are better off having it done at a shop. The following is my personal experience and is not meant to be a guide, repair manual or procedure for those who lack formal automotive repair training! The new shifter cables come as a set. The cable with the white housing does not seem to be a problem. The cable with the black housing controls the push forward-pull back and the cable with the white housing controls the side to side movement. I found that the new cable with the black housing had the same sort of stiffness when I pushed and pulled the cable by hand. Then I noticed that the cable end was bent, causing it to bind in the housing. I straightened the end by bending it with my hands untill I felt the least amount of binding or resistance when pushing and pulling it. When I installed it the difference was amazing! I kept the old cable set for emergencies. The only tools you need to replace the cables and couplings are a 7mm socket on a screwdriver handle, a phillips head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose plyers. Remove the center console, (4, 7mm screws) and electrical connections. Then remove the plastic panels around the shifter, (7, phillips head screws and 2 plastic push pins) associated snap together panel fasteners and electrical connections. Pop each cable end off it's shifter joint/ball and push the collar back on each cable housing anchor. Pull the carpet back and push the rubber grommet through the firewall in the passenger footwell. Then pop the cable ends off at the transmition. Pull the old cable set out and reverse the procedure to install the new cables. There is an adjustment of the cable length. This should be done before replacing the plastic panels and center console. The new cable ends that attach to the shifter can be positioned/adjusted. Looking at the old cable pair you will see where the old clips were positioned and can start with that. Then run the shifter through all the gears to make sure they all engage. If you run out of travel on the shifter handle re-position the clips on the cable ends, as needed, to get full gear engagement without running out of travel.

Posted on Aug 15, 2010

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