Question about 2001 Toyota RAV4
Tryin to change the condenser coil on my toyota rav 4
Replacing this will necessitate the loss of refrigerant gas. When you have replaced the condenser and the receiver/drier (must do) and the system is pumped down to remove the atmosphere from the opened system It is better that you have this operation done by an accredited ac specialist as they will check for leaks and refill with the exact amount of refrigerant necessary for your system
Posted on May 07, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: toyota rav 4
I work for Toyota, and I will be glad to provide you with the actual answer:
The RAV/4 product is available in two models, a 4WD model and a 2WD model.
The difference between the two is on the 2WD model, there is no driveshaft going under the vehicle to the rear wheels, and no rear differential. There is no "RAV/2"; both models are called RAV/4's.
There is a lot of common confusuion about how the 4WD works. It is full time 4WD. In other words, it is always in 4WD. It does not "kick in/kick out/automatically engage", or anything like that. It is 4WD all of the time. But, when I say "4WD", that is sometimes mistaken for "all wheel drive", and, in this case, the RAV/4 is not "AWD". What this means is that if you raise the RAV/4 up on a lift, and put it in gear, 1 rear and the other side front tires will spin. True "all wheel drive" would have ALL 4 wheels spinning. This is not the case with the Rav/4. What the RAV does have, making up for not having "True AWD" on the 5 speed model, however, is a switch that locks the center differential in the transfer case, which, when engaged, applies a method of "locking" the 4WD system for maximum traction, but it is still not AWD. The automatic version doe not have this ability.
The last "true AWD" vehicle for purchase was a 1970's International Scout.
If you are considering purchasing a RAV/4, that is a very good investement. They hold their value quite well, and are virtually bulletproof; I do not make any "money" off my RAV/4 customers...
Just "gas station work". Very nice cars. I hope that this helps you, please feel free to comment back with any otherr questions...Glad to be of assistance.
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
SOURCE: toyota rav 4
I can get you a diagram on monday but it goes from the alternator to the power steering pump then around the tensioner pulley then around the crank pulley then to the a/c compressor then pull on the tensioner to give you some slack and slip it on the waterpump.I hope that helps.Let me know if you still need the diagram
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
Zero tolerance means the valves may have hit the piston when the timing belt broke. I would suggest doing a cylinder leakage test to see if the valves are bent or not. If the valves are not bent then you can replace the belt and everything will be ok. If there are bent valves then the cylinder heads will need to be removed and repaired.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly,
behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator
You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam (separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal adjustment screws as well
Park your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same bulb, only do it for the lows)
For Low Beams: If the headlights read VOR, then aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall. If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.
For High Beams (if separate from low beams): Aim the headlight directly at the line you marked on the wall.
Posted on Sep 30, 2009
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