Question about 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD
I disconnected my battery to connect my amp for my subwoofer and after I was done I connected the battery and started the truck and all my gauges were freaking out and it was beeping. After all this I drove it and the battery kept dying out so I thought it was the altinator I put a new one in and it was still not holding a charge and I kept dying out. So I took it to auto zOne and they couldn't even tell what was wrong because it wouldn't read after being plugged in. Some are saying its my PCM and some say ECM what one is it?
Sounds like you grounded something out hooking it up, hope you hooked it up right at the battery, any where else you could of fried stuff. Are you sure the amp is good, what amps does it pull, could be pulling to many to where your battery can't handle it.. I would check all the wires you used, did you use the right gauge of wire, to run power ? It should be at least 4g or smaller, the longer the wire, the more it will pull
To check if your PCM is still good, make sure your battery is charged, then with key in ignition, turn it to the on position but dont turn it over, do this 3 times fast and the last time leave it in the on position, then look at where your mileage read out is,, if it says NO BUS, then there's a good chance your PCM is bad, if it says P Done, that means there are no codes in it, or if a code comes up.
Posted on May 08, 2014
Ok. First of all, the PCM and ECM are both referring to the same thing: ECM is Engine Control Module and PCM is Powertrain Control Module - same thing. Now before you go making a mountain out of a molehill because of everyone's suggestion just think about what was done when all this first started. You installed an amp for your subwoofer and then everything went crazy right? So something happened when you installed the amp and all you need to do is retrace your steps and check all that you did. It sounds like maybe you hooked up the amp wiring incorrectly - did you connect the amp power by running a wire directly from the battery to the amp, or did you splice into a wire in the car to get power to the amp? Same with the ground wire. Check both of those and if you didn't already run a separate, direct wire (with a fuse!) from the battery to the amp, then you need to. The ground should be wired directly from the amp to the chassis and not spliced into an existing one. I you did all that already, then look for wiring thAt May have been damaged during the install. It should be as simple as that.
Posted on May 06, 2014
Check your batter cables. Sounds like they got brittle and broke when you disconnected them.
Posted on May 06, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's almost never a pcm. You need to check things like the fuel pressure when this happens. I'd take it to a better shop as alot of tests require special equipment.
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
I would take it somewhere and have it checked out but here are instructions to replace pcm.
But again I would take it to a shop to have it checked. Could be alot of things
Posted on Dec 24, 2010
SOURCE: Truck was parked for a
With the truck running, use a multi-meter to check the + and - on the battery for around 14.2-14.6 volts. If the voltage is lower than this, there is a fault in the charging circuit. Check the Alternator Fuse to see if it is blown, trace the wires to the alternator and check for damage to the wires. If all looks good, you may have gotten a bad alternator. An ignition switch failure can also prevent the alternator from charging, but since your vehicle runs your ignition switch is probably fine.
Posted on Mar 10, 2011
SOURCE: i have a 1990 dodge
you need to check your electrical system with a digital volt meter-when the vehicle sits overnight, the battery should read about 12.5 volts before startup. You should get the same (or very close) reading at the large post on the rear of the alternator, then start it up. Readings should go to close to 15 volts, and gradually drop down to close to 14 volts at idle, again at the battery and the rear of the alternator. If it is much less than 14 (like 13) or more than 15 (like 16) you have a problem either with the voltage regulator or the ecm.
Posted on Mar 22, 2011
SOURCE: Possible PCM/ECM problem
Unfortunately that's not the case. Your battery was obviously strong enough to start the truck , and once started, the charging system increases system voltage to its operating range of 12.5v - 13.8v. Your battery may have only failed its AMP capacity and needed to be changed for that reason only. What is most common on your vehicle is when the battery goes dead or has been removed ,the ECM loses its learned memory and starts fresh again when the battery is hooked up again. Your start and stall, and / or stall in reverse is a result of the "minimum air rate adjustment" needing readjustment to compensate for age and wear. The dealer changed your battery but also did the "min. air rate" at the same time because if they didn't , you would still have your initial complaint of stalling in reverse.
Posted on Feb 23, 2014
Testimonial: "Well I must say that almost 100 days later, and my 1999 Durango is still running great, so the battery change appeared to be the problem..."
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