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For a number of years, automakers have used a "standard" type of brake light switch set-up.
That is, they put a plastic switch in a metal or plastic holder above the brake pedal arm under the dashboard, so that when the driver pushes their foot on the brake pedal, the arm goes toward the floor, and the brake light switch is "closed", (the plunger in the switch extends) allowing the current to flow to the brake lights.
Common problems then, are:
The plastic switch comes out of the holder, allowing the push button to extend, and keeping the brake lights lit.
Or, the switch fails, same as above.
Or the plastic stopper on the brake arm fails, again causing the plunger to stay extended.
Find a tiny person to stick their head under the dashboard, and you should see the problem.
God bless your efforts.
All of the posted answers are incorrect, with the exception of kevinbkr, but he does not go into much detail. To change the bulbs you most remove the light cluster. First, as kevinbkr said, remove the top black plastic facia plate. There are 4 push pin expanding type fasteners holding it to the body. Grab the center push pin head with a pair of pliers and pull upwards. It will come out leaving the now 'deflated' pin fastener behind. Using a regular screwdriver, carefully pry the fastener upwards and remove. Once the facia plate is out, look at down at the back of the light cluster and you will see three bent metal clips that fit between the body panel and a plastic triangle shaped pin with a slot in it coming out of the back of the light cluster. These clips hold the light cluster in place and onto the body. Pry these upwards and they slide up and off. The top of the clip has a flat edge, so pry there. The two on the top are fairly easy. Like most everything else, the one at the bottom is harder but you can figure out how to get it. I used a long screwdriver from underneath and tapped upwards. Once the clips are off, the light cluster can be separated from the car by several inches as the wires to the bulbs will prevent complete removal. Notice that the light cluster has a prong that fits into a slot in the front on the side closest to the car centerline. Don't break this prong when removing, and when replacing make sure the male prong is inserted back into the female slot. Just be gentle when removing the cluster and you will see what I am talking about. The headlight bulbs are rotated 1/4 turn counter clockwise and removed. Mine were kind of stuck and I had to carefully pry a bit with a small screwdriver and wiggle the old bulb out. You'll get it. The first side took me 10 minutes, and the other side 5 minutes. A pair of pliers and a couple of regular screwdrivers for prying the clips out are the only tools needed. Really easy after you've done it once.
Before I raise the car and place on jack stands, I loosen the top nut on the strut bearing. If you don't have an air gun to remove the nut there are tools available from online tool shops. A 1/2" drive breaker bar is attached on top of the tool while an allen wrench seen in the middle counter acts the by holding the strut in place.
Tool without the allen to use as a counter act, used with a regular L allen wrench.
Remove bolts that secure the swaybar to the control arm.
Use this tool to remove the tie rod ball joint with this tool.
With a automatic center punch tool, mark three reference points on the lower control arm ball joint flange (not on control arm. This will help line up the ball joint to the control arm without messing alignment putting back together.
Remove the 3 bolts that secure the ball joint to the control arm and wiggle out the ball joint and the wheel bearing housing away from the control arm.
Remove the large bolts that secure the strut to the wheel bearing assembly, this will somewhat loosen the hold on the strut.
With a long pry bar or a long pipe wedged on the control arm, position it when the time comes you need to counter act downwards.
On the wheel bearing assembly where the strut is buried, there will be a slot which you need a 1/4" drive extension attached to a 1/4" ratchet wedged into the slot.
Crank the ratchet slowly until it spreads the slot securely and wide enough to release the strut assembly.
With the strut separated from bearing assy. secure the strut from dropping and loosen the top nut above the strut bearing, remove strut from vehicle.
I don't know how far you want assistance but if need further info just let me know.
I'm guessing that you mean the mounting plate that attaches to the windshield. The plastic cover over that piece of the mirror comes off. It slides off toward the ceiling end of the mirror. With that off, you will see a small slot on the bottom of the mirror and mounting bracket. Slide a small screwdriver, like a sewing machine screwdriver into that slot. There is a clip in there that needs to be pressed and the plate will come off. The clip should press toward the windshield.
i've done this twice. 1/2 the pain is getting the door panel off.
At the point where the arm rest meets the door panel by the door handle there will be a small section where a little light shines on the door handle. you need to put a small screw driver in behind the light an pry this gently away from the door panel. this will reveal a small bolt that must be removed.
Behind the door handle itself there is a small panel that must be pried off as well. you will see a slot on the front of this to stick your screw driver and again push in as you pry back this piece of plastic. this will reveal a screw that must be removed also. just below the door handle, you must also pry off the lock lever as it sits on a rod that work the mechanism to lock/unlock the door.
If you have electric windows, there is a slot in the mounting bracket that you can stick your screw driver in a little and pry this up and out as you must remove the window and lock wires to get the panel off.
Now, there are a series of plastic push clips around the bottom of the door panel. You should be able to stick your fingers between the door panel and the door to pull these away from the door. Don;t use a screw driver for this as you will prob tear the panel. When you get it away from the bottom, do a curl with the door panel from the bottom as it is clipped on the top by the window.
Also, search for "door panel removal on the 1999 Pontiac bonneville" and you may be able to get some pics.
hope this helped.
Oh forgot, good luck getting to the nuts that hold on the mirror. you need someone with small hands and some funky wrenches to reach them.
Pull out window crank and door handle, remove panel, remove plastic Nylon that's between metal and panel, crank the window down enough to see the arm and the part that connects with glass. Make sure the metal part inside the door that comes from an arm and attaches to glass is clean, from broken glass and the gap that attaches to window is clean,bend the new glass to make it fit inside the opening slide down the new glass from the top using opening guides, grave it from both sides standing in between and make land on top center of the part that graves the glass, put automotive glass silicone on center of that part,just at where graves the glass, let dry, put the plastic back the door panel the window crank with the "U" shaped lock washer and the door handle, I hope I was clear
This has happened a couple of times on my 1999 Pontiac Montana. Here's what I did to fix. Open the hood. Remove the shield over the the wiper cam mechanism on the passengers side. This is easy to access. Road salts and other dust and dirt gets in there and causes the sticking problem. Spray WD-40 in between the parts. Get in there with that little red spray straw and saturate it good, flush junk out. Get in the car and try the wipers. If I remember, you might have to manually place that little knob or lever on top of the cam in the opposite position to get it to resync, but try it first. Be sure the wipers are off when you're spraying the WD-40 so you don't injur your hands. I've had to do this twice and it worked both times.
If the metal pivot arm is not broken you can just replace the glass and plastic housing. To remove the glass you tilt the glass down towards the floor and use a wide plastic or wood bladed object to prise from behind, the glass should pop off from its clips. Remember to catch it if its not damaged. To remove the housing once the glass is out you need to look underneath the mirror unit, there you will find a small plastic bung, gently prise it out and then use a long small flat bladed screwdriver straight up inside the hole and lever towards the front of the car whilst lifting straight up on the plastic housing, this should then lift off. To replace just slot the new housing on and click into place then fit the glass back, remember to connect the wires first if it is a heated glass.
If the metal pivot arm is broken then you will find the remaining screws behind the plastic trim inside the vehicle.