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My 1990 ford bronco 4x4 starts vibrating at 40 and gets worse the faster I go till I let off the accelerator then it stops till I hit the accelerator again then it starts vibrating again

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 3,679 Answers

Engine/tranny moutings , suspension/steering components /wheel balance/bearings sorry there are a few things that could do that so check the easy stuff first steering etc and work your way through the list

Posted on May 06, 2014

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  • Contributor
  • 4 Answers

Start with all bearing and wheel balance on all tires on both axels, if tire tread shows any kind of uneven wear replace and service all bearings and joints on that axel first, then service the other axel, if problem still occurs take it to your nearest service shop.

Posted on May 07, 2014

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: how you take out the oil pan on 1990 ford bronco

Ford Pick-ups and Broncos 1987-1996 Repair Guide
Fuel Injected 5.0L and 5.8L Engines - Oil Pan

  1. Drain the cooling system.
CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
  1. Remove the bolts attaching the fan shroud to the radiator and position the shroud over the fan.
  2. Remove the upper intake manifold and throttle body (see ).
  3. Remove the nuts and lockwashers attaching the engine support insulators to the chassis bracket.
  4. If equipped with an automatic transmission, disconnect the oil cooler line at the left side of the radiator.
  5. Remove the exhaust system.
  6. Raise the engine and place wood blocks under the engine supports.
  7. Drain the crankcase.
CAUTION The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
  1. Support the transmission with a floor jack and remove the transmission crossmember.
  2. Remove the oil pan attaching bolts and lower the oil pan onto the crossmember.
  3. Remove the two bolts attaching the oil pump pickup tube to the oil pump. Remove the nut attaching the oil pump pickup tube to the No. 3 main bearing cap stud. Lower the pickup tube and screen into the oil pan.
  4. Remove the oil pan from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Clean the oil pan, inlet tube and gasket surfaces. Inspect the gasket sealing surface for damages and distortion due to overtightening of the bolts. Repair and straighten as required.
  2. Position a new oil pan gasket and seal to the cylinder block.
  3. Position the oil pick-up tube and screen to the oil pump and install the lower attaching bolt and gasket loosely. Install nut attaching to number 3 main bearing cap stud.
  4. Place the oil pan on the crossmember. Install the upper pick-up tube bolt. Tighten the pick-up tube bolts.
  5. Position the oil pan to the cylinder block and install the attaching bolts. Tighten to 10-12 ft. lbs. (13-16 Nm).
  6. Install the transmission crossmember.
  7. Raise the engine and remove the blocks under the engine supports. Bolt the engine to the supports.
  8. Install the exhaust system.
  9. If equipped with an automatic transmission, connect the oil cooler line at the left side of the radiator.
  10. Install the nuts and lockwashers attaching the engine support insulators to the chassis bracket.
  11. Install the upper intake manifold and throttle body (see ).
  12. Install the fan shroud.
  13. Fill the crankcase.
  14. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

If you need see images about this theme, can visit autozone.com (free register).

Hope helped (remember rated this help) Good luck.

Posted on Dec 02, 2009

  • 583 Answers

SOURCE: Ford F350, 7.3 powerstroke, accelerating from 0-60

does it have acentre bearing in the tail shaft ?if so ,fhat is more than likely the problem .also check that all the tail shaft yoke s are in line,they only have to be 1 spline out togive those symptoms ,a rumble ,is definatly coming from the driveline

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

Icebassman 5
  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: my car makes a loud rumbling noise when i

I believe the bearings in the front wheel are about to come to the end.
Have it checked in a garage.... NOW! otherwise you will be driving on 3 wheels... sooon.
Iceman.

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Kia Sedona shakes/vibrates when turning a corner and accelerating from 0-40. Repair shop replaced front left tire because stell belt showing. Stopped for day after repair then started again tod

one check if your wheels are tight 95 ftlbs if mag wheels remove make sure no heavy corrosin arond hub and rim wheel will not seat properly and come loose. 2 check front end if belts are showing check ball joints and tie rides for wear vans are also known
for bad wheel bearings even if you cant hear it at 80km50mph give or take it may have ecssive play
check that front end .otherchecks ps pump and or loose p/s belt

Posted on Dec 29, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Fuse panel diagram for 1990 ford bronco 2

Here's the diagram for the fuse panel under the dash. There is also a fuse panel under the hood next to the air filter.e589aae.jpg

Posted on Jan 29, 2010

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IT sounds like it could be in the transfer box as that can give you the vibration if the bearings have a little bit of wear but still lets go to something for you to do now and that is get some small 2oz weights (square bits of metal ) and about 6 big hose clips 2" bigger than the tailshaft.Now get under the truck and fit 2 or more to the rear shaft with 1,, 2 oz plate side by side 1/2 way up, and the plates under the screw on the clips so its got the weight in 1 place , this will let you balance it your self and you keep undoing them 2turns and moving around the shaft 1/2" at a time and if better
add another clip and plate in the same place till you get the vibration out of it and when all 100% then mark the shaft where the plates are and then take off plates and hose clips and weigh them so you no what size weights to weld on and mark shaft on back axle and front flang so as you get it bolted in the same place all the way through so when new plates are welded on then all must be 100%.
Let me know how you get on... as its a bit of a bugger of a job but it will be worth it to get the balancing correct plus you might have to do the front shaft if you run 4x4 . Plus you might have to go down the shaft or up higher towards the box ..but keep on a good back road where you can keep stopping to move the clamps.. Ron

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