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when the sound starts check the temp gauge and see where it is at
I'm thinking that you have a viscous fan hub and it cuts in when standing at lights or slow traffic or heavy loads at slow speeds
it will keep running until the engine temp comes down or you switch the engine off
or it could be a electrical controlled fan and the noise on shut down is the relay clicking off
if this is a 4wd drive model , try having someone listen to front wheel hubs when you back up , id be conserned that the front wheel hubs seals have gone bad and there is now dirt inside bearings and has damaged them , also ive seen clicking caused by locking hubs not fully disengauged by dirt stuck inside
Could be CV Shaft or Hub Bearing as well. Jack up the front of the car, support with Jack Stands and check for play in wheels/hubs/bearings/linkage by grabbing wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock positions for tie rod ends and steering linkage, then 12 and 6 o'clock positions for bearings. You should barely be able to feel play. If you think it is more than acceptable climb under the car while someone else performs the tasks above. Turn wheels for excessive brake noise or out of tolerance discs. Out of tolerance discs will cause premature brake wear and cause pads to move around in the caliper sometimes before starting to grind. Finally, and what I think you're hearing/feeling is the CV Shaft. Grab shaft, move around feeling for excessive play in joint or splines on each end. Turn steering all the way lock to lock and turn wheels at each lock, forward and backward, feel/listen for clicking/popping. Most of the time you can quickly easily diagnose bad CV Joints in a parking lot by slowly, safely driving in a circle forwards and backwards making the joint noise more pronounced. If it is a CV Joint, my advice would be to spend the extra few bucks and replace the whole shaft while you're there. Its quicker and easier requiring less specialty tools to complete the job.
The best way to check is to lift the corner of the vehicle clear f the ground and then with a trolley jack lift the lower wishbone to put pressure on the suspension spring. This removes any force on the ball joints and bearings associated with the wheel hub. Grab the wheel 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and rock the wheel from side to side to side. If there is any slack or minor play you will feel it first and possible see and hear it. Now take the wheel in the 6 o'clock and noon positions and and again check for play. Now remove the wheel and apply the rocking motions again to the naked hub. You should be able to see any fault with the steering knuckle, the wishbone control arm ball joints and bushes along with any play in the hub bearing. The bearing should run smooth and you should neither feel or hear any roughness from the bearing.
If there is a lot of play detected try this: Remove the locking pin on the main bearing nut and then tighten the nut until free rotation of the hub begins to become stiff. Now loosen the main nut by two flats only and refit the locking pin. Refit the wheel.
When driving, a worn bearing is indicated by a persistent whining growl. On front wheels the noise often gets worse during a turn as the weight of the vehicle is transferred.
While the wheel is off check the condition of the brake rotor ensuring there are no warps or cracks. A damaged rotor is indicated often by a thump thump sound front he wheel and this is accentuated and felt through the brake pedal when the brakes are applied
Deep growling sound could well be a bad wheel bearing. A bad cv joint will generally make a click or clacking sound, usually while only turning. While driving, you can often change the pitch of a bad wheel bearing with a slight turn of the steering wheel (note - slightly, no crazy zig-zag). What you're doing is shifting the weight on/off of this bearing and the pitch will change if it's bad. Only way to verify is to remove it and feel it in hand. It's a sealed hub/bearing assembly and only replaceable, not serviceable.
It sounds like one of your wheel bearing needs to be replace, most likely one of the rear bearing may have gone dry and needs to be replaced soon as possible before you have a total bearing failure and loose a wheel. With the car parked, go to each wheel and push back and forth on the top (side to side) you should be able to hear and feel which wheel has the play since it's will feel and sound different from the other wheels. The rear wheel bearing can be replaced with simple tool and under 1 hour if your good with tools and the front will have to be brought to a shop since your going to need am impact gun to remove the front axle nut from the wheel hub. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted if your going to replace the rear wheel hub your self and i can give you the instructions to replacing the hub. I believe the rear hubs goes for around $170.00 at Auto Zone and they can give you the step by step instructions too.
a few things to check and try to help determine if its bearing . the good ole annoying " growl" that gets progressively worse as speed increases. does the noise change when making turns... try swerving the blazer side to side. if it changes...u have a bad hub assembly . as a rule a drive axle wont do more then vibrate or click on a turn, especially that year with the constant velocity joints in the front. hope this helped you out