The check engine light came on while i was driving from wyoming to idaho. i had been punching the pedal to the floor to keep up with the 75mph speed limit when i noticed it was on. i checked all the fluids and everything is still good from when i topped them off before i left and i just had an oil change the day before...any ideas?
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there is not info to be able to give a definite answer
to work it out
you have top know the diff ratio, wheel tyre circumference to be able to work from rpms of the engine to road speed
However as a pointer, most cars will be around 3200 rpms at 60mph as this will be direct drive and od causes a drop in rpms
Being an automatic find yourself a good section of low traffic road and start from stop slowly increase the rpms and watch the rpms. keeping the accelerator steady you will see when the auto changes by a drop in rpms. slowly increase road sped until you see the next drop in rpms and so on. Over drive normally comes in around 55 mph or around 3000rpms
I would think that it is working because 3500rpms at 75mph is reasonable rpms to be expected. If it wasn't working I would expect the rpms to be around 3800 to 4000.at 75mph
With the oil light coming on and the brake pedal being hard to press I would say that the engine stopped hence no vacuum -no power assist from the booster.- hard brake pedal. The lock uo feeling may come from the engine seizing up while you were still in gear
now is the car 2017 plated or 2011 plated as there is a vast difference between new and second hand new to you Next question is it automatic transmission or CV transmission With automatic as you increase rpm the car will accelerate and you will feel ratio changes up to the point where road speed = engine rpm for that throttle setting With a CV transmission ( constant velocity transmission ) there is a torque converter but that is where the automatic action ends In the transmission there are 2 pulleys with a big belt that can vary the ratios by pulling the flanges together on one and expanding on the other This gives an infinite number of ratios and is designed to keep the best ratio selection for the torque band of the engine SO how does it affect your driving If you floor the pedal on take off, the engine will red line and stay there until road speed builds up OR you ease back on the pedal and the pulleys start to change the ratios to suit the power band How to drive it when you want to take of push the pedal down to around 2500 rpm the car will take of normally as the road speed increases , ease off the pedal and it will keep altering ratios until the correct road speed is reached for the rpm on the dial The only catch that you will have to get used to is when going to pass at speed , you tend to floor the pedal to get past quickly but it will not down change ratios until you ease of the pedal and then the car will speed up to the rpm that you are holding it at IT is different in driving and you will have to learn to drive to rpm not road speed and then it will behave normally ( set the rpm by the pedal and the transmission will catch up and to make it catch up , ease of the pedal in stages , just like a conventional automatic
I would first check the u-joints on the driveshaft if the problem only happens when the speed is between 62-75mph. Then check all the tires for lumps or bulgesin the sidewall or tread surface. The tires may also be out of balance and bouncing at that speed. If the vibration occurs only when the engine is around 2000rpm, check the pulleys, serpentine belt and anything driven by it for looseness. Also, check the trans mount to see if it is loose or broken. If everything checks out ok, have the OBD codes checked to see if anything might be causing the engine to surge.
If the brake pedal goes to the floor with the car off, I would suspect air in the system or some other issue with the service brakes. If you feel and hear a growl in the pedal when it goes to the floor then your abs controller may be at fault. There are many possibilities. In either case if your pedal goes to the floor, then you are looking at a safety issue. Generally the service brake system (regular brake system) is the fault and not the abs. I have however seen a sticking dump valve or faulty wheel speed sensor cause an abs issue. Start with the basics first. Leaky wheel cylinders/ calipers, brake lines, or master cylinder. Verify the hydraulic integrity of the service brakes before tackling an abs issue.
It sounds more like a faulty fuel pump. Usually a sensor problem will switch the computer into default mode and it will keep running but give you an engine light. Sounds like it is not getting fuel. It can be checked for fuel pressure by a mechanic with a guage. They can also check stored codes in the computer for faults. If it's a sensor, it should show up in the memory.