Question about 2000 Ford Crown Victoria

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2000 crown victoria wont start

My brother has a 2000 crown victoria police interceptor 4.6. He tries to start the car and he gets nothing from the starter. And the air bag, antilock brakes, engine and brake lights staay on. He has checked the battery, fuses under the dash and hood and cleaned the grounds. He has replaced the altenator, starter and the ignition switch. Still nothing.... He can jump the starter and the car will start but the air bag and antilock brakes lights stay on. The head lights, horn, turn signal, brake and reverse lights work, radio and heater blower all work. Any ideas??? Thank you for your time ... Mark

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  • everitt2007 Jun 22, 2009

    The car will start if he jump the starter and it runs fine. But the dummy lights stay on. He has replaced the ignition switch with a new one.

  • everitt2007 Jun 22, 2009

    The transmission is working fine. Also he tells me that the day this all happened he went to work and it was dry when he came out it was pouring .. then he started to have problems.

  • everitt2007 Jun 22, 2009

    He also changed the battery and it still does it.

  • everitt2007 Jun 22, 2009

    He said he cleaned and checked the grounds.

  • everitt2007 Jun 22, 2009

    Not sure if he checked the solenoid.

  • everitt2007 Jun 22, 2009

    He said he had keys made at ACE hardware and they worked in the car. The car used to be a police car if that helps.

  • everitt2007 Jun 22, 2009

    It's going to go. Just wanted to see if we could fix it first.

  • everitt2007 Jun 23, 2009

    He said he has given it a tune up. and replaced the plugs wires and such.

  • everitt2007 Jun 25, 2009

    I went up and talked to my brother .. He said he replaced the DTRS and he had the computer checked by Cardone in Philly. He also replaced the starter relay with a new one. I checked the relay and found with the key on the yellow wire is hot... the yellow/green wire is not and the red/lb is not hot also. The manual says it should be hot when in park/neutral it is not. When he jumps both yellow wires the car will crank but not run (he said at one point it did run when he did that) . Thanks in advance for your help. Mark. ps. the car is not at my hose so if you ask me to do something i have to catch my brother by phone and let him know)

  • everitt2007 Jun 26, 2009

    He replaced the relay with a new one.

  • everitt2007 Jun 26, 2009

    No with the key on there is not power at the solenoid. There is power to the starter relay on the yellow wire.. But no power is leaving it. Also the red wire to the relay that should be hot when the key is on is not. It is a brand new relay also. I will have him check the selector switch.

  • Eric Amundson May 11, 2010

    Has he checked the ignition switch and connector for any signs of overheat or burning? It's on the column under the dash and a pain to work on.

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In my opinion this is most likely related to wiring. To clarify have you checked at the solenoid with a multimeter to see if power is travelling to it when the ignition switch is turned on?

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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  • Radio Code Pro
    Radio Code Pro Jun 26, 2009

    The relay may be fine but is power getting to it in the first place?

  • Radio Code Pro
    Radio Code Pro Jun 26, 2009

    A further thought



    1) There may be a selector switch loose on the transmission which is causing the car to fail to recognise that it is in park. I would carefully check the wiring to the tranny for any evidence of this.



    2) I resolved a problem like this once on a car where part of a plastic bottle top had got lodged underneath the selector and was totally concealed from view. However it was doing enough to prevent the car from going properly into park causing the exact same problem with starting. Check carefully for any debris around the selector.

  • Radio Code Pro
    Radio Code Pro Jun 27, 2009

    Ok. Given your last comment. I would definitely say this problem will be traceable to



    a) faulty wiring or a loose connection leading to either selector switch or ignition switch



    b) faulty selector switch or impeded selector (car thinks its in drive and safety circuit is on therefore no power to solenoid)

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  • Master
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#1. The starter relay has failed.
Position 6 in the under-hood power distribution center.
30A relay.

#2. The DTRS sensor may have a problem - as it allows the car to start in only Park or Neutral.
Shift the car into Neutral and attempt to start. If it fires up - the DTRS (Digital Transmission Range Sensor) is what is faulty.

#3 This seems like multiple problems you are experiencing - as the no-start condition should not be causing such havoc.
The dampness correlation can be attributed to a PCM (Powertrain Control Module) getting compromised with water and/or humidity.

If you need further clarifications or would like to see the start schematics (with the DTR Sensor) please use the "Continue with this Expert" option so we are connected in the future.

Thanks for using FixYa!!

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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Try replacing the starter relay.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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Try sending it to a technician and ask him about the car. There are some shops that offers free check up in the car.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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You need to call a locksmith and ask if they can program transponder keys
is an anti/theft system your car computer don't recognize the chip on your car key and wont allow you to star it. check this link than will help you to understand your situation http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/228323306/TRANSPONDER_KEY_FOR_1998_1999_2000.html
Good luck :-).

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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Sounds like bad ground in system,that can cause all kinds of electrical issues!!!!

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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Hi everitt

it could be a number of problems. the first being the battery. take it out and take it to a place like autozone or advanced and have it checked. If the battery is ok then i would replace the spark plugs. if they haven't been replaced in a few years they can build up crud that will affect the spark created by the plugs. My advice is to tow it to a local mechanic and ask to find out how much it will cost to locate the problem. If its under $100, it would be worth it to locate the problem rather than replace parts that may not need to be replaced.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

  • marlon john madrid
    marlon john madrid Jun 22, 2009

    the starter solenoid may be at fault

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You have a coil that is shorting out andbackfeeding the PCM that is causing the lights to come on. If you canscope the coils, you will find one that is shorting out. We use the PDSor the IDS to check for coils that are shorting out. When the lightcomes on, the PCM goes into limp in mode. That is the transmissionproblem you are feeling.

here is the special service message from ford for this problem....
SPECIAL SERVICE MESSAGES
19183 1998-2005 MULTIPLE VEHICLES -WARNING LIGHTS FLASHING - TEMP GAUGE PEGGED HOT OR COLD - TACH ORSPEEDO BOUNCE - DRIVEABILITY CONCERN - UNEXPLAINED DTC'S
SOME 1998-2005 VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A GAS ENGINE THAT USES ACOIL-ON-PLUG (COP) SYSTEM MAY EXHIBIT ONE OR MORE OF THE FOLLOWINGCONDITIONS DUE TO RF INTERFERENCE ON THE SCP/CAN NETWORK: ABS LIGHTFLASHING, A FLASHING FAIL SAFE COOLING LIGHT, TRACTION CONTROL LIGHTFLASHING, INTERMITTENT 'BUMP'(MISS), TEMP GAUGE PEGGING HOT OR COLD,TACH OR SPEEDOMETER BOUNCE, BUCK/**** AT CRUISE, AND/OR UNEXPLAINEDCODES. THERE ALSO MAY BE AN INTERMITTENT LOSS OF RPM. PRIOR TOFOLLOWING NORMAL DIAGNOSTICS FOR THE SYMPTOM, USE TSB 05-22-08 TODETERMINE IF THERE IS A CONCERN WITH A COP. MONITOR POWER BALANCE TOSEE IF A CYLINDER IS DROPPING OUT DURING CONCERN. IF POWER BALANCECONFIRMS A CYLINDER DROPPING OUT AT THE TIME OF THE CONCERN, PERFORMTHE COP STRESS TEST FOR THE SUSPECT CYLINDER'S COIL TO VERIFY INTERNALCOIL SECONDARY FAILURE.
EFFECTIVE DATE: 05/09/2006

if u feel trouble in locating the components....... kindly refer the following link.......
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/componentlocations/componentLocationMain.jsp

the repair guide and wiring diagram for ur vehicle is available at the following link.....
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideMain.jsp;jsessionid=22BADBDAF2779F610AE7AED9AA4E3EF9.diyprod3-b2c6?leftNavPage=vehicleRepairGuides&ymmeId=2000/19/2/830&targetPage=vehicleRepairGuides

good luck....
if i ve been of some help... kindly rate my service....
have a nice day

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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Starting problem is due to faulty spark plugs,replace them at the same time check brake pads to solve break lights problem as of for antilock: The antilock system is completely independent of the base brakes. The pads have nothing to do with the antilock sensors. You most likely have a broken wire at one of the two front wheel speed sensors, or a wheel bearing failure. You should have the ABS system checked for codes to find out which wheel is setting the code. If you have access to an Ohm meter, each wheel speed sensor/hub bearing assy should have around 1000 ohms of resistance through them with no continuity to ground. If they short to ground, they will set a code.
thanks for using fixya.keep updated.
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Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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Check your ingnition system - start with replacing the distributor cap and rotor

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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