Hi Ive got a 95 hiace 2rz engine carberated, It runs when cold for about 5k and complete shut down and wont start till coldish,, starts and shuts down every 500m-2k after that till cold. seems to have plenty of fuel at carb on cranking, replaced coil in electronic distributor and it still does it.Can someone advise what they think it might be to replace next. Thanks
What you should have in the electronic distributor is an ignition module with a coil outside wired to the distributor. The ignition module creates the pulses needed for the coil to generate extreme high voltage . If that coil is incorrect voltage for the system then it is most probably overheating and failing to work. There are to voltage coils that can be used . One is a straight 12 volt coil that starts and runs on 12 volts and the other is a start on 12 and runs on 7.5 volts with the run circuit going through a resistor or resistor wire . Check out which coil should be in your car and if correct (7.5) check the voltage to the coil with a multimeter and it be should read 7.5 volts when the ignition is in the run position
It sounds like an igniter. This will overheat and stall. Won't start until cooled down. There is no way to repair. Only replace. I would try Bill's solution first.
Thankyou, I have replaced the ignition module and it has fixed the problem.
When it shut down the rev counter went straight to "0" ,I tested the power going in to the distributor and there was still constant power, There was no spark at the spark plugs. Even though it has been running well for the last year prior to it having this fault, When I get a chance I will also check the voltage.fixya rocks !
I have a 2rz HiAce minibus. it runs for a while then shutsdown. when checked it appears that a random fuse has been blown such as headlight fuse, ac fuse, etc. when the fuse has been changed the engine starts and runs again. any ideas.
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Maybe the fuel cap vacuuming
I have exactly same problem 97 hiace 2r carby so far ive replaced every electrical item ignition switch (nope) alternator(nope) rotor cap & leads ( nope) coil (nope) just soul destroying!!
good luck with yours
2/5/21
so today i noticed the vacuum advane lever inside the dizzy was not connected/busted im wondering if this is it i have another distributoer on order and hopefully this is it
SOURCE: 94 toyota camery no spark
I had the same problem recently but replacing the ignition Coil under the distributor (inside) solved the problem. Also replaced the distributor Cap and rotor at the same time.
SOURCE: 1995 camry has no ignition fire
I think for sure that the timing belt has jumped a tooth. This can happen if your water pump, or your idler pulley, which are driven by the timing belt, "locks up" for a second. Best advice: replace the timing belt (you should not "reuse" it, as once it slips a tooth, that tooth is now weakend. Also, check the feel of the water pump impeller-gear...if it feels gritty or does not spin freely, replace the water pump while you are in there. It's not much more work. Also check the IDLER pulley for the same feel. If it feels bad/does not spin free, replace it. One or the other caused your problem.
Let me know how it turen out.
SOURCE: car wont start when it rains or damp
I also have a 96 camery, and have had problems when it was damp, it would not run well. It did start, but did not run well. You mentioned that you had changed the distributer. If you have not changed the rotor too, that is more than likely your problem. The extreme high voltage that todays cars have makes it easy for the ignition spark to jump a couple of inches. If there is a rust line, a crack with moisture or what ever, the electricity will follow the path of least resistance. If you have any WD-40, spray it around on the rotor, distributer cap, and top of the coil. It should start, as this displaces the water. If you can watch it in the dark, you may see fire jumping around the coil, or distributor cap. I hope this solves your mistry!
SOURCE: where is fuel pump relay on 1995 toyota camry
generally toyota, supply `power direct from ecu
SOURCE: 1996 Toyota Tacoma wont start when the engine is hot and sits a few minutes
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I found this problem was
My ignition module in the distributor solved this breaking down when warm Its best to replace the coil too.
Apparently the coil wasn't the best and it was effecting the ignition module in the distributor. Good luck solving your similar problem.
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