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The most likely cause of your problem is the master switch in the drivers door. The windows and the locks are on two separate circuits. The only part that these two have in common is the master switch.
Of course it is also possible that the wiring harness between the driver side door and cowl is corroded and that some of the pins are to corroded or even broken off and do not make contact. Also check that you have good and tight positive and negative battery cable connection to the battery posts. Wiggle the cables a bit. If it still does not work, pull out and put back fuse #8 and circuit breaker/relay #68. Try wiggling relay #68 it might just not make good contact or is stuck.
Pulling the fuse or breaker cuts the power and resets the circuit. Good Luck and let us know how it is going.
The wires run under the front seats. They start at the drivers side and travel under the plastic panel at the door jam, then cross over to the other side. then they go forward and back to the doors and other electrical devices in the car. these wires can break anywhere. but usually at the door jams. Corners mostly. You will need an electrical schematic and ohm/volt meter to trace the wires. Also a piece of wire about 5 feet long and lots of time. This not a fuse or relay problem as all the doors work off one circuit breaker. If it went bad then none of the doors would work. Let me know, I can help. also there is the slight possibility that both motors went out at the same time. Randy
you need to check the wires that come in from the left drivers side kick panel to the drivers front door......when you open the drivers side front door you will see the harness that comes from inside the car to the door and 99% of the time you will find that there will be broken wires......this is a common problem on these cars.....the best way to check this is to unplug the harness behind the kick panel and take the door panel off and feed the harness back through the door and pull back the black rubber cover that is protecting the wires.......once you have all of the wires exposed start checking for any broken wires and also you might want to take each wire one at a time and pull on them to see if any of the other wires are about to break cause the insulation around the wire could be the only thing holding it together......the wire inside will break over time and the insulation will not....hope that this will help you and if you need more info let me know.....let me and fixya know if i was any help to you and a comment and a thumbs up would let me know how i am doing.....thanks and have a blessed day........good luck and i do believe you will find your problem in the door harness and dont forget to check all of the wires......
With all the windows quitting at once, start with checking the fuse. Some cars list a specific fuse location but there are other fuse locations that state " fuse # controls windows, *********other components. If the fuses are good make sure the relay for the windows are good.
Check fuses and relays first. Second, try to get a testlight on the electrical wiring going directly into the switches for the windows. Is there electricity going in? If yes, then you may have a faulty switch. No? Then trace backwards and see why there is no juice. Also, check to see if the power window switches on the passenger doors work. It is unlikely that all the door regulaters and/or motors have failed simultaenously. This sounds like electrical. In other words, the juice may not be getting to where it should. Any small shop with ALLDATA would be happy to print you the electrical schematic on your car, if you feel up to this. If not, most shops may find the problem for you at no chrage and then just quote you on what it woul take to fix.
hey kempster_rob the problem is in the wiring between the doors and the body, the wiring is short and is constructed wrong, so when you after 3000 openings and closings the wires brakes and either loose connection or makes shortcuts between the different cables causing fuse blows and disrupted working electrical system. Solution is to open the isolation around the cables and either repair them or displace them, its possible to buy a repair kit at the peugeot dealer
I dont think that anything to do with the rear hatch lift supports have anything to do with a wiring issue, however I have recently discovered that there are so many 98 models that were put together in many different factories world-wide that it is the most problematic jeep without uniform or typical related problems haha...but first thing I would do, generally the windows and locks all operate based on the drivers master controls located on the door, you should check the wiring connection on the inside of the door panel and if that is the problem more than likely you will have to replace that module
Look in the Engine bay fuse box at Fuse #12 this should be for the power windows.
If this checks out OK, it could be a fault with a bad ground wire in driver's side door harness.
You should be able to pry the runbber boot from the drivers door, and check the larger Black wire that goes through it. These have been known to break after a few years use. If it is the cable, cut neatly, strip the ends anu use a crimp splice.
Hope this is a quick and easy fix for you.
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