Ok issues 1 and 2.all 4 LAMPS fail, you didnt say?
does the emergancy flasher flash 1 or 4 lamps.
Emg.has its OWN fuse too.......
not stating this ,makes help , very hard.
suz, parts are expensive , just like shop labor.....
are you saying 4 new lamps is overbudget? really?
but diagnosis is free with a DMM. a $20 tool got it?
the first step in all electrics , are the fuses all good>?
first off , it can only be 3 things, Macro analysis.
1: bad lamps. (they open and short , replace 1 by one to find the shorted one, test lamps across the car battery with gloves/goggles.
2: bad wiring, trailer wiring from H3LL? look , inspect all blinker wiring. all 4 corners for collision damage or the work of hackers.
hackers are like , trailer wiring , jokers, do horrid damage.
LOOK , you see non stock wiring, bingo its HACKEd.
fix that, and win, make it like new, and well, it might last.
3: that leaves the combo switch and blinker module.
the module fails rarely, sad you guessed this first. its dead last.
a good module MALFs if it loses power or ground,that\'s not its fault.
The module good, malfs if the lamps are open or shorted.
it takes 1 good lamp on each side for the module to work.
if all lamps are removed and the module clicks this is normal
on modern car, (electronic module, some are silent "transistors")
so to find this easy, after the wiring inspection and fuse checks.
what do you do, i guess no DMM so we work tool free.
1: remove all 4 lamps.
2: test them all with a battery. do the all glow? easy huh?
if the base is loose they are trash, and will short and make a fire, or blow the fuse. do not use are test shorted lamps...
if youput a shorted lamp across a batter it will melt the test wires.
that is why the FSM states, and I quote, use a fused jumper wire
with an inline 15amp fuse, these are all facts and reality.
3: if the filament looks open , then okay, it is , more trash.
4: next try just 1 lamp at a time inserted in each corner of car.
1 good tested lamp.
does if flash when asked, buy the blink lever or Emergancy main switch? yes or no.
yes, then put then rest back in 1 at a time, and see that they all work. do they or did the fuse blow, (shorted lamp)
no? flash, ok, leave that 1 lamp in.
at this point only tools solve this riddle, that tool is a DMM.
it costs $20 whole bucks,
set the dial to volts. if a fixed ranged meter use 20v range.
the car has a wiring diagram.
if you like doing car repairs book free, or alldata dot com , free
you will fail, i do, and have vast experience (retired puke i am)
there is one more way , sans meter. to solve this riddle
that is called hot wiring.
you look at the diagram of the flasher system.
I will call the blinker module, just the module.
see link here..... the real deal....http://www.fixkick.com/look/blink89-94-metro.pdf
it is simple....
it a serial chain, a serial circuit.
if the this chain is broken the lamps are dead.
I use a volt meter, always, but if not having that.
you can hot wire this circuit with risks, (why i use a meter)
i will the hot wiring from simple to hard,
the schemic above clear.
find the blinker combo switch pig tail connector.
its below the column (steering (between knee caps)
the left blinker out. is
Green-red that means green body red stripe !
dots mean nothing here.
I hot wire that wire and the left side of car glows.
ok lamps and wires good, i body
hot wire, Green /yellow at combo connector.
the right side glows as I hot wire, ok, right side is 100% good.
now we go to the combo solid greenwire (all USA colors)
this is input to the combo blinker,
if I move the lever left , left glows, and if I move right, right glows,
no, not blink, glows......!!!
ok we have the problem and is in the dash and not the body blink wiring. all in 5mins work.
easy huh> (I use back probing probes and fused jumper as the FSM clearly states, no burned fingers from on fire wires. not me,.
how about you?
I hot wire, green wire (solid) at the module.
Module means the 3 pin blinker modules, some cars this is hard.
i hot wire the green and the above green test is the same here.
I then how wire the module yel/org/blue wire.
this is 12v input.
if the lamps blink now, key off, on demand (lever action)
then the combo binker switch is bad.
to prove that (did above) then you hot wire the models solid yellow wire, and the blinkers are dead,
yes? then the combo is dead.
no? they blink then the fuse was blown all alone.
the 10am fuse with the yellow wire. is blow, its IGNITION ON.
or if the fuse is blown the the ignition wire to this fuse is blown.
but if car runs, its not a bad ign, on wire.
if you have a volt meter all this is more simple and safer.
you measure the voltage,
and see pulsing 12v at lamps.
see 12v at yel./org,/blue at module.
and 0v on the modules black wire when blinking, if not 0v
the ground is broken.
you then move the meter to green module wire, it must pulse
blinking is 0v, 12v,0v,. 12, repeated for ever.
if the blinker has 12v at 12v pin key on, and ground is 0v and the output is 0v solid the blinker module is bad.
if the voltage is low, the body wires are shorted.
if the blinker Green wire pulses, and the lamps dong glow.
then the combo Gr/R /G/y , Green switch is dead.
if the green toogles, pulses keyon, at combo connector green
and the 2 ouputs are dead, the switch is mangled inside.
that is it. I showed 2 ways, and not guessing. the 3rd.
sorry for long post but you , needed both ways of 3.
i skipped guessing, way 3.