Question about Mitsubishi Pickup

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I require the torque settings for main and big end bearing caps for my 1999 L200 2.5td 4d56

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  • rickclews Jun 21, 2009

    Hi whats the torque settings for bigend bearings for L200 2.5td



    Regards Rick

  • rickclews Jun 21, 2009

    is this torque setting for main crankshaft and conrod bigend bearings



    Regards Rick

  • rickclews Jun 21, 2009

    Hi i have a misubishi L200 2.5td and need the torque settings for the crankshaft bearing caps and also the conrod bigend bearing caps .

    Regards Rick

  • rickclews Jun 21, 2009

    mitsubishi L200 4life double cab pickup 2.5td

  • rickclews Jun 21, 2009

    i require torque wrench settings for the crankshaft main bearing caps and conrod bigend bearing caps

  • rickclews Jun 21, 2009

    i require torque wrench settings for the crankshaft main bearing caps and conrod bigend bearing for a mitsubishi L200 2.5td 4d56 engine

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Inner main caps 70 ft. lbs, outer main caps 65 ft. connecting rod torques are 45 ft. lbs (caps).
-----------Torque setting on the head bolts
25 newton meters
30 newton meters
90 degrees
90 degrees-------------First initial torque must be 20Nm in alternate bolts from center to outside. follow above numbers....-------7 3 1 5 10--9 6 2 4 8---Next step is unscrew all bolts in reverse sequence.Next step is torquing again all bolts in initial sequence with 70Nm.Next step is torquing all bolts in same sequence rotating at 90 degrees.Last setp is torquing all bolts in the sequence for more 90 degrees..

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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Try to set the system to 100-140 ft lbs..try to have a look in autoshop101.com.thank you

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

  • 4 more comments 
  • JITHIN ANTONY Jul 03, 2009

    have you tried

  • JITHIN ANTONY Jul 05, 2009

    does the problem solved

  • JITHIN ANTONY Jul 05, 2009

    have you setted it to 140 lbs

  • JITHIN ANTONY Jul 05, 2009

    -----------Torque setting on the head bolts

    25 newton meters

    30 newton meters

    90 degrees

    90 degrees-------------First
    initial torque must be 20Nm in alternate bolts from center to outside.
    follow above numbers....-------7 3 1 5 10--9 6 2 4 8---Next step is
    unscrew all bolts in reverse sequence.Next step is torquing again all
    bolts in initial sequence with 70Nm.Next step is torquing all bolts in
    same sequence rotating at 90 degrees.Last setp is torquing all bolts in
    the sequence for more 90 degrees..


  • JITHIN ANTONY Jul 06, 2009

    have you tried my solution

  • JITHIN ANTONY Jul 07, 2009

    does the problem solved

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  • Master
  • 1,952 Answers

What is car model brand ?

  • The first fully enclosed hydraulic wrench
  • The first double-acting piston wrench
  • The first limited clearance ratcheting tool for tight applications
  • The first convertible tool to allow for both square-drive and narrow use
  • The first successful 10,000 p.s.i. wrench system
  • The first use of titanium/aluminum alloy tool bodies
  • The first non-rigid piston design
  • The first accuracy assurance pawl
  • The first swiveling hose connectors
  • The first tools to meet a 3% calibrated torque accuracy standard
  • The first ISO approved hydraulic wrench manufacturer
  • The first true 1-year "No Questions Asked" warranty











  • Invention of "hands-free" bolting with the Clamp and LoaDisc revolution
  • Invention of the co-axial reaction system
  • The first FME compliant wrench with no pins to fall into your work
  • The first dual-piston wrench for greater speed and compact size
  • The first auto-cycling pump and wrench system
  • Invention of the safety backup tool
  • The first and only manufacturer to make bolting education a priority
Removal & Installation (4WD Models - Except Excursion & Super Duty Pickup)
Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel. Remove anchor plate and caliper assembly. Remove rotor.
To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts and nuts. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
Removal (Excursion & Super Duty Pickup - 4WD)
Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel. Remove anchor plate and caliper assembly. See DISK BRAKE CALIPERS & PADS. On models with single rear wheels, remove rotor. On models with dual rear wheels, remove hub plate extender nuts, and remove hub extender plate. Remove rotor.
NOTE:If excessive force is used when removing rotor, it should be checked for lateral runout prior to installation. See ROTOR under OVERHAUL.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jun 21, 2009

    The

    ignition system
    components include:

    spark plugs
    ,

    spark plug wires
    , distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor,

    ignition coil
    ,

    ignition module
    , knock sensor and

    ECM
    (engine
    control module
    ). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered
    to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or
    is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly



    • Anytime you have a problem with electronically
      controlled components such as an

      engine
      ,

      transmission
      ,
      ABS
      brake
      , or

      SRS
      (supplemental
      restraint system, Air Bag
      ) inspect all fuses using a
      test light
      and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels.
      If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.


    • Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled
      components such as an

      engine
      ,

      transmission
      ,
      ABS
      brake
      , or

      SRS
      (supplemental
      restraint system, Air Bag
      ) and the fuses test ok a
      trouble code scan is needed
      to identify any system trouble. Use a simple
      scanner tool to retrieve
      trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific
      problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present
      does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a
      later time, after the car is running. The reason we repair non-related codes
      after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered
      by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present
      might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't
      it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected
      by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect
      the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything
      is ok with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.


    • Step 3 - The spark plugs in your engine are used to
      ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs
      are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire
      or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition.
      Please use this

      spark plug condition reference guide
      to see how the spark plugs are
      operating.




    • Step 4 - Determine if the engine has compression, this
      can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to

      perform a compression check
      . Remove the spark plugs and

      perform a compression test
      on one cylinder. If one cylinder has
      compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same.
      Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be
      between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression
      exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine
      to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure. If low or no
      compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation
      when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or
      chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the
      camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual
      access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over.
      Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose
      correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The
      best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and
      inspect timing marks. If the compression is ok proceed to next step.


    • Step 5 -

      Test the ignition system output
      , ignition systems can vary in configuration
      but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick
      up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires,
      distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these
      components. An
      ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12
      volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the
      spark plug. This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using
      the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the ECM (computer).








  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jun 21, 2009

    General Torque= r*f sin(theta)

    T2= r*F2 Sin(90)o


    As distance of F1 is twice of F2 from pivot


    T1=2r*F1 Sin(45)o


    Net torque=0


    T1-T2=0

    T1=T2 2r*F1

    Sin(45)o = r*F2 Sin(90)o


    2*20*0.707=F2

    F2=28.28N

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jun 21, 2009

    A torque wrench basically is a tool which is used to specifically set the force of a fastening like a nut or a bolt. It generally comes in the shape of a socket wrench with an inbuilt mechanism. A torque wrench is generally used to tighten screws and bolts. It offers the user to calculate the torque applied to the bolt so it can be coordinated with the specifications required.



    This allows precise tension and loading of all elements. A torque
    wrench ultimately measures bolt tension. This method basically has a
    flaw of inaccuracy which occurs because of its inconsistent friction
    amid the fastener and it's mating hole.



    Calculating bolt tension is generally quiet precise but quiet often torque is the only way of measurement possible.

    Torque = force x distance.



    So, if you apply 100 lbs on the end of a 1 foot long wrench you have (100 x 1) 100 ft-lbs.



    Of course if you wanted to do this differently: The wrench is also 12 inches long, then you would have (100 x 12) 1200 in-lbs.



    To give you some perspective a typical lug nut on a wheel could need around 100 ft-lbs and a typical spark plug could need only 5 ft-lbs



    Just make sure that the force you apply is applied perpendicular to the end of the wrench!

    At a dollar store
    for a buck



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  • 3,230 Answers

Hi there,

set it to 140 ft lbs.

Thanks

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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