Question about 1996 Chevrolet C2500

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Location of camshaft position sensor

Under load truck hesitates and trouble code for camshaft senser is present but cant locate.

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  • Anonymous Mar 23, 2014

    truck does not run

  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

    hard to start idels rough stops running

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  • Chevrolet Master
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Under rotor button inside distributer

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Code p0340


Code 340 is for a problem with the cam sensor signal going back to the computer. Since you replaced the sensor and the problem continued, chances are the real problem is in the wiring harness or the object on the camshaft the sensor uses as a reference point.
Unplugging the sensor makes the computer use a known good signal or value in place of the sensor.

Jun 24, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need to find where the camshaft pos senser is located on the engine. it is a chevy venture 2001


THE CAMSHAFT SENSOR LOCATED ON THE SIDE ENGINE CYLINDER BLOCK NEXT TO POWER STEERING PUMP.

Jul 23, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Venture

2 Answers

My 95 la sabre will crank but dies immeadetly after, if i give it gas it cranks an revs up like its susposto. i changed the cat converter an changed the aic valve ,an the fuel filter, its getting plenty of...


Hi,

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This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.

  • Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
  • Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.
If Your Engine Cranks but Does Not Start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.
  • Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
  • Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.

The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner



Ben

Jun 06, 2011 | 1995 Buick LeSabre

2 Answers

It well not start except when you jump it, but the battery reads good the alternater reads good, and the starter reads good. when I unhook the nagetive cable of the battery it keeps on running. does the...


Are you checking the battery with a voltmeter or with a load tester? A battery with a weak cell will still read 12 volts but will drop drastically when you put a load on it. Try taking a voltage reading while trying to start it without being jumped. The voltage shouldn't go under the 9 volt range. Even at that, you can't tell with a voltmeter what the amperage is on a battery under load. Remove the battery and have a place like Auto Zone do a load test. They do this test for free.

Jun 05, 2011 | 1994 Oldsmobile Silhouette

1 Answer

Acceleration slow once up to speed ok hesitation had fuel filter replaced I have heard it could be a sensor in the computer and that there have problems with this any help[????


Hi,

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The steps I'm going to outline are the same as we use in mu shop for hesitation, sag and stumble.

All of the tools required can be borrowed from AutoZone at NO COST!

Sensors:
  • The sensors can be checked OBD-II code scanner borrowed from AutoZone. Pay special attention to an TP (Throttle Position) warnings. The sensor can be manually checked for binding or sticking.
  • Check the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) found near the firewall and screwed into the exhaust manifold for signs of corrosion on the threads. That will cause a faulty ground.

Fuel System:
  • Check the fuel pressure with that fuel pressure gauge from AutoZone. You reading should be 40-45 PSI and holding steady.
  • Contaminated fuel is a constant problem and if the pressure does not hold steady, replace the fuel filter.

Additional Checks:
  • Make certain that the engine thermostat is functioning and is the correct temperature.
  • Make certain that the alternator voltage output is not less than 9 volts nor more than 17 volts.
Here's a little general information that will assist you in comprehending the readouts from the code scanner. This is simply for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.

Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.

Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

If Your Engine Cranks but Does Not Start Follow this Troubleshooting Guide (This doesn't necessarily pertain to you but it's useful to know)

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.

Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.

The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

Ben

Jun 04, 2011 | 2002 Buick Century

1 Answer

HOW TOU SET THE TIMING


Hi,

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Your vehicles timing is set by a computer commonly known as Engine Control Module. This device is located under the instrument panel and is the control center of the vehicle.

It controls the following:

  • Fuel metering system
  • Transaxle shifting
  • Cruise control operation
  • Ignition timing

It constantly looks for informational input from a variety of sensors and controls that directly affect vehicle performance.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.

Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.

Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

If Your Engine Cranks but Does Not Start Follow this Troubleshooting Guide

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.

Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.

The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

Ben

Jun 03, 2011 | Hyundai Elantra Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The problem that I am having is that the car will turn over but will not catch what do you think might be wrong and also were is the fuel filter located on that model car.


You might want to check the crankshaft and camshaft sensers, there has been issues with the factory ones over heating and shorting out.With out the sensers the engine wont run.But remember you need to replace both crankshaft and camshaft. F.Y.I the camshaft and crankshaft are the same so dont worry about getting them mixed up.

Aug 13, 2009 | 2003 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

98 ford contour hesitates when raining/wet


has the system been tested for trouble codes? if none are present replace the MAF sensor.

Jun 18, 2009 | 1998 Ford Contour

4 Answers

96 4.3L Vortec S-10 Blazer died while driving


I am tired of people getting the run around on these engines, and the "Like." This post will be repeatedly posted threw out the world wide web until It ranks number 1 in the google search list when a user googles 4.3 dies, or rough idles etc... For me, "There is absolutely No information on this when the problem occurred for me!." For example, We would not search for "the year the valve covers changed on vortecs" when we keep getting thin ones from a vortec thrown at use. As the Idiots "Humans" we are we would simply search for , "Flat valve cover gasket." In return we would get nowhere.

After we learn the problem, "After" we can then properly search google for the solution. For example the proper term would be, "What year did the vortec valve covers change in?" Walaa. Before hand we was googling for "Flat vortec gaskets."

My point, "You can not google for a solution if you have not already solved the problem."

CHEVY DIES at stop sighns, red lights,Redlights etc. If you are here reading this, Then it is because you have wound up here due to your engine stalling or not starting properly. You googled for a solution and here are some answeres. "Answeres I didn't have" when I had the problem.

These are keywords used to get you here when you googled your problem, Please Excuse them.

Chevy 4.3 vortec Die Died Stop Flud smoke Blue Black White Spark Missfire Code Error 15 43 45 14 OBD Lop Lope Loping Lopeing Surge Surging Surgeing Knock sensor senser light engine problems fault starting heat heating crank crunk run running viberation viberate stall hesitates hesitate fuel filter pump line vacuum vacume oil astro s10 sonoma chevy plug sparkplug distributor rotor button pop cold hot water intake carb EGR valve idle idler cam sputters misses leak hose. when sometimes
will not start
does not start
cant start can't start can not start will not start wont start want start problems starting idle problems.



Some 4.3's have 2 Coolent temperature sensors, Some only have 1. On the engines that contain 2 sensers, One is a Temperature Senser and the other a Temperature Switch.

The Temperature switch Is an open circuit, It closes at a high degree.

The Temperature Senser, It can Advance Timing, De-advance timing, Control your Fuel to Air ratio and much more. 9 Times out of ten if your truck is stalling, its the temperature senser.

Which one is the Senser, which is the Switch? The temperature Switch, Which is the minor of the 2, It has one "Vertical Pin in the center of Plug Housing." It is used only for Plug guidence. The smaller *** close to the center *** is the connector ***. It is where the 1 wire makes contact.

The Temperature Senser, Rather than switch has 2 side by side Vertical Parallel Male Titts. It also has 2 wires.

Some engines Do not have a Temperature Switch, The switch on these are built into a temperature senser, and a switch is not needed.


These are the "Symptoms" of a faulty temperature Senser.
Surging
Loping
Sudden shut offs at stops
Transmissing jerking, Leight or violent.
Missing
Missfiring, Since the senser Does control Timing!
Fluiding, Wrong Fuel to air Ratio, The senser controls that to.

Rings for your Vortec. If you can't find the rings you're lookinf for, Chances are " PERFECT CIRCLE " is the only Brand ring you will be able to find without paying the dealer price. Which Perfect circuit runs around 60 to 70 bucks for the hard to find rings that you thought was impossible to find.

(PVC valve can cause Smoking." And rough idle as well. But loping is mostly due to temp senser.


Vortecs have very few sensors. If any of them go out the BRAIN is "PROGRAMED" to cause a ton of trouble. They are Designed to cause you to spend your money.

Temp Senser, Code 15, Not all BAD temp sensers Shoot a code, Sometimes these Bad sensers Do go under the radar and the error anylizing doesn't work, and give code.

You can not test a Temp senser with an ohm meter, Because at different temps you get a different reading. If you suspect this type of problem make the senser number 1 on your list to replace.

The part is 12 bucks at autozone. $12.00 and you should not pay no more than 35 dollars to have it put on are you are getting ripped off very very very badly, Since that is "More than what its worth" to have it installed.

The vortecs with No temp Switch will have the senser located in the driver or passenger Head. Engines with switch sensers will have the switch on the head, and the senser by the Thermostat duck goose neck, so a hose may have to be removed along with a throttle cable and top breather.

78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21
19 19 49

vin
ECU
30 Block
code

Spider leaks due to lines or regulator, where regulator is not part of the spider and can be removed, regulator can be purches on the internet threw search engines for 50 bucks. Right clean intake equals bad regulator left equals bad supplie lines.

Supplie lines and clamps can be purchease under 3 dollars, hoses made for gasoline. Ports leak into cylinders.

Some engines have abnormal cylinder locations such as 135 or 153 and 642 or 246. Accorrding to the book of the cylinder locations mines are different. This is abnormal but those engines are out there.

If you're having problems with firing, Cross 2 and 6, then 3 and 5. Doing this will reveal the right locations over time. This can leave you scratchign your head when all you're finding is 1 diagram thats not for your engine.

"The Poppet Valves DO NOT leak inside the intake." What Idiot ever started that. They leak inside the HEADS. The Regulator and Supplie lines leak inside the intake. Rarely do you need a entire "Spider."

Caution, Spider lines are Fragile and will break like glass. Do not bend them any.

How to install Supplie line hoses to the spider. Insert the washers First, Then insert the feed lines. DO NOT insert the supplie lines if they contain a washer already on them, They will not fit. You must first Push the washers Inside the spider, Then the feed lines will go into the spider, and as this happens the washers will slide up onto the lines, This is how it is done. User a lube, Gas or PB blaster Oil or whatever.


IF you run into the store, come back out and your engine fails to start, It's probably your Senser if you can't keep it running. If you manage but it stinks, its probably your spiter. You can also Hear gas leaks inside intake. Cap can be removed to see inside intake, Intake shouldn't be too clean which would indicate gas cleaning.

Apr 12, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

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