Question about 2002 Ford Taurus

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2002 Taurus stalls while driving

2002 Taurus SES stalls while driving and when slowing to stop. Restarts normally sometimes and sometimes abnormal length of time to start.

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  • bcgundrum Jun 22, 2009

    The solution you furnished does not address my problem..2002 Taurus SES stalls while driving and when slowing to stop. Restarts normally sometimes and sometimes abnormal length of time to start. Please supply a solution to the problem I described, at no additional cost.

  • bcgundrum Jun 22, 2009

    2002 Taurus SES stalls while driving and when slowing to stop. Restarts normally sometimes and sometimes abnormal length of time to start.

  • bcgundrum Jun 22, 2009

    it doesn't start to stall, it actually stalls and engine shuts off..

  • bcgundrum Jun 22, 2009

    RE: Solution #3. The engine does not start to stall and keep running. THE ENGINE STOPS RUNNING COMPLETELY. IT WILL RESTART SOMETIMES NORMALLY AND SOMETIMES TAKES AN ABNORMALLY LONGER PERIOD OF TIME TO RESTART, BUT IT DOES RESTART AFTER SEVERAL TRIES

  • bcgundrum Jun 22, 2009

    THE ENGINE STOPS RUNNING COMPLETELY. IT WILL RESTART SOMETIMES NORMALLY AND SOMETIMES TAKES AN ABNORMALLY LONGER PERIOD OF TIME TO RESTART, BUT IT DOES RESTART AFTER SEVERAL TRIES

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I am a 25 year Ford tech and the problem is a dirty idle speed control solenoid and throttle blade, do the following procedure I use at work, follow it exactly or it won't work.

Here is the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, stall during deceleration, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carburetor spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

  • yadayada
    yadayada Jun 22, 2009

    OK have u had a system scan done to check for trouble codes? if not do so, also clean the MAF (located in the engine air intake hose) sensor with a can of MAF cleaner from any p[arts store, brake clean works well as well and is often cheaper, next have the fuel pressure tested when this stalls, u may have a fuel pump issue, low pressure can cause this issue, if the car has anything close to 100,000 miles the fuel pump is suspect, been doing this type of work on Fords for 25 years and there is no substitute for the testing that i have recommended and the cleaning procedure's. Give it a try before you reject the solution, u will find I have the right answers 90% of the time.

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The issue that you are having with your vehicle is the fuel injector. It is going out and you need to get that replaced because that is why your car is stalling when your slowing down and having issues restarting. As soon as you get that fixed you will not have the same issue.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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I suppose the ignition system is the problem in your car.
you can check it in the following steps

  • Step 1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
  • Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and check if they relate to the specific problem, like an ignition coil failure code. If a trouble code is present but does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code, ignore it until a later time, after the engine is running properly. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running properly is because sometime false codes can be triggered by a rough running engine. Once the engine is running properly the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine isn't running right shouldn't it have a check engine light and a trouble code?"Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the intake or exhaust valve operation fails the computer cannot detect the failure because the problem is not sensor related, so the engine doesn't run smooth and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If the trouble code retrieved relates to a cylinder misfire like an injector driver or ignition coil failure first these problems and re-test system. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
  • Step 3 - Check the ignition system basic output voltage, this will test the ignition system by observing the spark from the ignition coil. This is done using a test light and inserting the sharp probe into the end of the plug wire boot allowing a sizable gap from the inside plug wire terminal and the test light probe. If the engine does not run and you are testing the ignition system output continue with this test. If you are testing the ignition system to troubleshoot an engine cylinder misfire you will need to disconnect the fuel pump fuse or control relay and bleed off fuel system pressure to stop the engine from starting. (note: sometimes the engine will run slightly until excess fuel is burned) To locate the fuse or relay for the fuel pump located in the fuse box or power distribution center, if you cannot locate the fuse or relay consult your cars owner's manual or an online repair manual for their locations.

  • Step 4 - In this step remove the plug wire or ignition coil wire to gain access to the end of the plug wire, coil wire or coil over spark plug boot depending on a particular ignition system configuration. Ground the test light lead to a known ground source like the negative battery terminal, insert the probe end of the test light into the end of the boot creating about a 3/4 inch gap between the probe and the terminal inside the boot. Position the boot and test light combination for clear observation and away from rotation accessories. While observing the boot/test light probe gap have a helper crank the engine over (keep hands and clothing away from rotating accessories). There should be a bright blue electrical spark between the spark plug/coil wire/coil terminal and the test light probe.


Posted on Jun 22, 2009

  • venugopal durairajan Jul 03, 2009

    we had a very simmilar (in fact identical)
    problem with a v plate golf, and after exactly the same attempts at
    fixing it, fuel filters, etc etc, it turned out to be the immobiliser,
    a stupid little fault, have you had any glitches with central locking?

    we replaced imobiliser after getting vw service to refund all other
    attempts to fix it, and this problem only showed up when it was hooked
    up to vw europe on a wire, i know its a different car all together, but
    the problem is identical.......



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Your description sounds like a ignition problem going on. Due to the fact that it starts to stall but stays running. The other two things I would check would be the IAC ( Idle Air Control Valve) and the EGR valve.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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