Rear passenger side wheel/brake locking at first touch of pedal
I have a ''88'' Chevy S10 pick up truck. Have had extensive brake work done already. The shoes, wheel cylinder, and all hardware have been replaced & drums where machined. it does not loose and fluid at all and pedal is never soft. But still have same problem. Only the rear passenger side wheel/ brake locks when the pedal is barely touched. sounds like you just slammed on brakes. only does this when you first take off in morning, when in heavy stop & go traffic or in the rain. if you gun the engine for a short distance the next time brakes stop perfect.
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Re: Rear passenger side wheel/brake locking at first...
You possibly have air in your lines. When you bleed them you need to start at the rear passenger, then rear driver, then front passenger and then front driver. If you are certain you have no air in the line then you have a bad brake hose/brake line. Replace this and your problem should go away. If not then the culprit should be the distribution or master cylinder. I hope this helps.
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Timbo, Sounds like the right back brake hardware may be damaged or seizing. Take in for free inspection at some larger repair places. To show your appreciation press the helpful button and follow me on fixya for more tips and info.
Do you feel the brake pedal go down when you hold you foot on the pedal while starting the truck ? Maybe the power booster is bad. The power brake booster is vacuum controlled in most cases an if you hold your foot on the brake pedal when starting you should feel the pedal go down if working correctly .
Engine should be off and pump brake about 4 times to release pressure, then bleed,driver side rear,passenger side rear,passenger side front,then driver's side front,use a bleeder kit.If pressure won't hold and you have drum brakes,remove both rear hubs and check wheel cylinders for leakage.Check flexable fuel lines at wheels and it could be a bad brake master cylinder.
The brakelight fuse and the switch on the pedal is only for the brake lights. It should have no effect on the dash brake light. That light is to alert you that a problem exists in your braking system, not the brake lights. I think you will have to pull off the rear drums and investigate why they are locking up. Check for a leaking brake wheel cylinder that may have contaminated the brake shoes, causing them to grab and lock up. Are the shoes in good shape? Also, check the operation of the emergency brake. Maybe it is not releasing fully. The emergency brake can be adjusted on the cables somewhere underneath the truck, probably at the equalizer (where the cable for the emergency brake splits to both sides of the truck). The adjusting nut will have a lock nut tight against it to hold the adjustment. Loosen the lock nut, then turn the adjusting nut one way to loosen the cable, and the other way to tighten up the cable. You might want to loosen it up and see if that has any effect, and then tighten it once you have fixed the problem. The adjustment would be about right when the emergency brake handle or pedal locks up the rear brakes when it is depressed about halfway to nearly fully depressed. Hope this helps you out, and good luck.
start from the fartherest place from brake master cylinder, that will be the rear passenger side wheel. it takes two people to bleed brakes. you will find the bleeder valve screws at the top of inside of the rear drums on both rear wheels, have someone pump the brakes up, will take at least 4 pumps of brake pedal, at 4th pump keep pressure on pedal while you break loose the bleeder valve on the rear wheel, fluid will come out and brake pedal will go down to floor, keep pressure on brake pedal until you've tightened the bleeder screw back [note] you'll only have to back the bleeder valve out about a half turn until you see the fluid come out. after you've done the rear brakes add brake fluid to the master cylinder as it will be low. then go to the front passeger side and you will find the bleeder screw on the brake caliper. repeat the same proceedure as back. remember that pressure on the pedal is a must until you've tightened those bleeder valve screws back or else it will **** air into the brake system. suggest that you bleed all 4 wheels not just the back. after you've bled the front make sure you add more brake fluid back to the master cylinder, it will be low again. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com
You didn't say what the shop checked so I may be repeating something they already looked at. Check the brake caliper and I would also drain the old brake fluid and put in new fluid. You didn't mention if it was making any noise when this happens so I'll assume it's not a problem with your wheel bearings.
have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.
Have someone push & release pedal while at wheel with problem. See if it takes a while or slow to release. If yes, have wrench ready on bleeder screw, and try again, if it sticks/holds, crack bleeder screw, if it releases, I'd replace hose.
You have a bad master cylinder my friend, all the braking force is going to the rear hence the lockup, the front brakes most likely don't do anthing, all mdern brake systems are split, so you have at least 2 wheels working, in effect the car has 2 master cylinders in one unit.