Where can I get a manual for a 1988 corolla ?

I take it you mean the transmission grinds when shifting into reverse with a manual transmission in which case the input shaft of the transmission is still partially engaged with the engine. One cause may be low fluid in the hydraulic clutch reservoir if it has a hydraulic clutch mechanism; use DOT-3 brake fluid and pump the clutch pedal a few times to remove any air. Another cause may be that the pilot bearing is hanging up; this is a major repair. Another possibility is that the clutch lining is coming loose or totally disintegrated requiring replacement.

chances are the clutch 'fingers' are getting old. maybe try and lubricate your pivot points including the one inside the gearbox accessable by removing cover around the clutch fork. if not id say you may need to replace the clutch itself.

3.7 quarts. Add it until the gear lube just begins to come out of the fill hole on the side of the transmission.

Remove transmission and check the clutch slave cylinder for leakage. Check fluid level and bleed if necessary. Remove clutch, pocket bearing, throwout bearing and pressure plate. Check for leakage from rear engine seal and front transmission seal. Remove and replace seal(s) if traces of oil are present. Check clutch for oil film and excessive wear, damaged or worn pressure plate (if close to tollerence, replace for convenience). Replace clutch components as necessary and reassemble using your manual for guidance. This should take care of the problem. I see you have changed your fuel filter and given a basic tune up so you should be good to go at that point (check compression and distributor timing) If timing belt has not been replaced around 60,000 then replace or you may end up on the side of the road. if any further questions let me know.

cheapest first remedy,replace keys,(remote batteries,if you have them)and recode the car/keys.
then reset the immobiliser system,if you havnt got the book get back to me.....

Check the autozone website and register the car information. This will give you access to an online repair manual. It's a very handy resource that you should find useful. Sure hope so anyway and best wishes.

There are two possibilities to consider:

1. the master cylinder is leaking/by-passing hydraulic fluid
2. the slave cylinder is leaking/by-passing fluid

You didn't mention a fluid leak, so that would eliminate the obvious cause of a leaking pipe. However, check for leaks around the master cylinder (on the firewall) and at the front of the engine by the clutch itself. This would indicate which of the two might be the problem, If they haven't been replaced in many years, it's probably sensible to replace both at once. The slave cylinder can be replaced without removing the engine. If you have ABS, you'll likely need to loosen/remove the alternator.

Good luck!

Saabreur

Check first the status of the clutch fluid. If the fluid seemed to drop check for leaks in the side of the transmission and up in the pedal. If here is, the culprit is the clutch master. If there is non, have the clutch and the pressure plate checked out.

should be on the back of the engine block going into the transmission somewhere you may need to get under the car to access it good luck please rate -jeff

I've got a friend of mine who is selling the very same Car with a Running Motor. I suppose that will be your solution to the problem. His contact details are as follows; +27113800095/21 his name is Emmanuel Mavhungu.