We have jumped the pressure switch and the compressor kicked on, we then put 1.5 cans of freon in until full and washed the radiator fins and still get nothing but hot air. The compressor comes on when the a/c is on, but is still not pumping hot air
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Does the compressor kick in when you turn it on?(if not it could be the a/c switch or the power to it, the a/c clutch wire connection, the clutch itself, or it's low on freon) You should hear the clutch kick in when you turn the a/c on. Low freon will also cause the clutch to not kick in. Remove the low-pressure switch plug and jump it with a piece of electrical wire. If the clutch kicks in, you just need to add some freon. Put the plug back where it was after you remove the jumper wire.
Is the belt on and adjusted to the right tension? If the belt is loose it won't cool as good as it should.
Check the freon in the system with a gage. If it's low, add some to the right amount and see if it cools. If it is overcharged, it will blow hot air, too.
The heater control valve slider should be all the way to the left so hot water isn't allowed to circulate through the heater core which would also make it blow hot air out the a/c ducts.
Good luck, they can be a pain, but with careful, step by step troubleshooting it can be fixed. There is plenty of information about a/c online to help you out. Try googling in: auto ac troubleshooting tips for more info. garcuda
How do you know the freon charge is not low ? If the system is full, you should be able to jumper the relay and make the compressor clutch engage. If not, the problem could be the low pressure switch or the clutch.
Hello, You need to check how much Low end pressure you have. The Low pressure cutoff switch will disconnect the compressor if the pressure is too low. The high end pressure switch will do the same thing for extreme pressure.
Sometimes the Low pressure switch will get weak and cut off the system too early. Just change this switch which will come out with only a slight puff of Freon being lost. You can jump the connector with a U shaped wire and bypass the Low pressure cutoff switch. If the compressor works better and does not cut out, it can still be low on Freon or have a bad Low pressure switch.
However, if the compressor cuts out a Second time with the Low pressure switch bypassed, the system is probably overcharged and the HIGH pressure switch is cutting off the compressor. You need to purge some Freon out of the system if High pressure is indicated.
Where it gets tricky is the Compressor will compress both Freon and Atmospheric air. Your efficency drops when the Freon is displaced by Atmospheric air. You will need to find the leak in the system which is allowing Freon to leak and outside air to enter the system. You will get a pressure reading with any gas in the lines.
There are Leak detectors and sealers for the system. I hope you just have a bad low pressure switch which is the easiest solution.
Hi, if you have full pressure (40-50 PSI on low pressure side with engine running A/C set to maximum and blowing) you have enough pressure, but there is air in the system which degrades the refrigerant leading to no cold air. To remedy this, you must completely discarge the system and refil with new R134a which has the compressor/system oil added to it.
To discharge the system, shut off motor, attach your filler hose to low pressure valve and allow system to drain. (squeeze handle if you have that type filler hose) Allow it to drain until no sound of escaping air is present. Be careful not to have the end of hose facing you or others, wear gloves and have some shop rags laid down, pointing nozzle toward rags, that stuff can damage paint and skin and may be cold when escaping. After system has completely drained, start the refil process with engine running, A/C on maximum, blower on full. After about 1/2 of the first can of R134a or 1 full can, your compressor should kick on. Continue refilling with 3-4 cans total (about 3 LBS total) until you have a reading of 45 or so PSI. After each can, allow refrigerent to cycle through the system about 3 minutes to obtain an accuret pressure reading. Pressure is relavent to outside temperature also, optimumly the ambient air temp. outside vehicle should be between 72 and 80 degrees F. for proper reading. That should get you blowing cold air again!
Please rate this answer! Thanks, Mike
Not sure how you know if the freon is full without the unit running. There are a number of switches which can keep your A/C from coming on. There is a low pressure switch which is usually located on the larger line and sometimes located on a silver cannister (called an accumulator) which is the low side of a compressor circuit. There is also a high pressure cutout which is usually located on the back of the compressor unit. Both of these switches can be jumpered out to see if they are the reason for the compressor not working. You remove the two wire connector to either switch and place a small jumper wire between the two wires on the connector block. The other reason my be a low idle cutout switch and this will also usually be located near on on the compressor. You can also test it the same way as the other switches. If it is the low pressure switch then of course you will need to add freon which you can purchase from any auto parts store. They usually come with instructions and all the equipment needed to add in freon. If it is high pressure, then some of the freon should be recovered from the system by a technician. If is the low idle cutout then you will have to take it to a mechanic to understand why it is idling so low. Hope this helps.
Immediate thought is a Lack of Freon in the system, or possible failing, of the Low Pressure Switch in the Hose line, that energises the Compressor Clutch.
An inexpensive get out, is to purchase a DIY can of FREON, that includes Compressor Lubricant and inject it into, the High Pressure Freon Hose port.