Question about Ford Escape

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2004 Ford Escape; my engine is bad due to being non-lubricated, possibly from neglect of maintaining oil changes. If I replace say something as simple as the idle control valve, could that fix my problem? Or are there more simple solutions to fixing a bad engine? I want to try all the littler things first before I'm obliged to take it into a repair facility. The car starts up still and will run fine if I just leave it there on idle, but as soon as I put any pressure on the accelerator it makes hefty noises from clicking to rattling, and it loses power and stalls again. It also stalls when I shift the gear out from 'park'. I had just filled up my oil tank the day it died because it looked low on oil by at least 3 quarts, but it drove me around most of the day yet it just gradually got worse then stalled at the end of the day, etc. Could it have been too late to remedy my engine with oil had it gotten too low prior? In other words, could it have gotten to a "non-lubricated" state before I put the oil in, where it was already doomed by that point regardless? It seems that a frozen engine (or a "non-lubricated" engine as my dealership put it) would just not work like it had if it had too little oil, but I know there were AT LEAST 4 quarts in it that day the problem occurred, so how can they tell me that it was non-lubricated? They did say it could be a number of other problems, but they would have to open up the engine, etc. just to make a diagnostic estimate on it, which would cost me $1,500 alone...obviously that is a ridiculous step to take especially in my financial position (as well as this day in age). What angles can I take to bring my engine back up to par? Or what can I tell the repair facility to look at to fix this problem? I need to do all the little things first before I spend a bill that is looking like $3,000+ at least. Thank you for your time and understanding, and I would greatly appreciate your advice on the matter at hand. ~Mike

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Mike, check theoil by draing part of it and look for metal in the oil. Is the engine seized up or will it crank?

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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I got multiple solutions. One, you said it was atleast 3 qts. low, Two, you drove it all day knowing it was low. There's a slim,very slim, chance you have a cracked flex plate to the transmission. But yea, sounds like you beat it to death. Gotta maintain the fluid levels & keep watch for leaks.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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Mike first of all if the motor still starts up there could be some other steps that you could take before doing a complete motor replacement. as far as the 1500 for them to just diagnos the problem that is rediculous either one they dont know what they are doing or two they have already determined that your motor is junk and you need a new one if this is the case then their is no reason for you to pay them 1500 to tell you that you have to put a new motor in it. What ever repair facility you took it too seems like they are trying to take advantage of you. why pay 1500 to have it diagnossed when a new motor for that car (with instalation) should only run you about 3000 a little more or a little less depending on where you live.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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