Question about 2003 Ford Explorer
Second motor with 100K on it. On the highway when it reaches final running gear it starts running rough, occasional backfire. Kick it into passing gear and it is fine for a short time then tach goes down 300 points suddenly and it starts the miss firing. Reapeats this cycle over and over. Recently after 100 mile trip it was really bad with lots of back firing on city street and very little power. Back to normal pattern after a day of rest. Transmission modulator valve replaced last year as were spart plug wires. All was well for a year after that. The symptoms now are very similar to when the modulator valve wasa out but it did not back fire then as it is now. Transmission guy says valve ok. Can of B 12 seems to help a little Tried high octane Shell gas and it was much worse. Gas milage was 18 now 14. Help!
I would get the timing checked . backfiring is a real good indicator of that problem
Posted on Mar 16, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1990 Ford Mustang Start Problem
Ok... if you want to save a boat load of cash, DO NOT go to a dealer... they will tell you what you already know and start replacing every thing until they find the problem.and then charge you for parts that didnt need to be replaced to begin with. I also own an '87... and had the same problem... it turned out to be ..the ignition module.. it's located on your distributor , just below your dist. cap. it' a $40 part from NAPA. You can EASILY replace it within 10 minutes. HOWEVER you will need the "special tool " it costs about $4 dollars. Make sure you have some bright colored nail polish or a paint stick handy to mark the position of the distributor. YOU WILL PROBABLY BE BETTER OFF WITH A TIMING LIGHT . Not neccessary but just to make sure your timing is right on.
1) Un plug ignition module.
2) Loosen distributor hold down bolt.
Enough so you can move the distributor
JUST LOOSEN DO NOT REMOVE..!!!
3) Turn distrbutor counter clockwise enough to get the"special tool" into the holes to remove the TWO screws.
4) DO NOT pull ignition module out. It is plugged in.
Push module down towards the floor until it releases.
Then take it out.
5) Clean off contact area on distributor (thats the flat area that the module was pressed up against) with brake cleaner or electrical parts cleaner, etc.
6) Apply the greasy stuff that came with your new module to the contact area of the module.Just put it on there with your finger.
7) Place the module back into position .
REMEMBER to slide it UP.
8) Tighten the TWO screws back up using your newly accuired "special tool"
9) Plug the wiring harness back into the the module.
10) NOW this is the part you will either find easy as pie or hard as hell..Hope fully you marked the position of your distributor with the paint stick or nail polish. If you did . Match the marks back up , and you should be good to go .
****** If you didn't mark the position it's ok...*******
(if you have a timing light) The factory setting is 10 degrees..you should see the white mark THATS TEN DEGREES.....
IF YOU WANT TO GIVE IT A LITTLE MORE "GET UP AND GO" SET THE TIMING BETWEEN 12-14 DEGREES.
REMEMBER TO REMOVE YOUR SPOUT CONNECTOR WITH THE CAR OFF ,
THEN WITH CAR STILL RUNNING RECONNECT IT.
THE SPOUT CONNECTOR LOOKS LIKE A DEAD END WIRING HARNESS THATS JUST TO THE RIGHT OF THE DISTRIBUTOR.
it has a removable dead end connection .thats the spout connector. DO NOT LOSE IT .
Posted on Jul 05, 2008
If the hi-tension wires check out ok you may want to check on the distributor and the contacts at its end and in the inside. You may also want to test the ignition coil.
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
SOURCE: miss fire
After all you have been through,check your body grounds.look at the three or four small black wires near the radiator and at the battery Make sure they are good,and also you can make a new ground from the battery to any where on your body. see if this helps.
Some times when work has been done on fords a body ground goes overlooked.And is not put back on the car.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
if this truck has an o2 sensor i would replace that and also make sure the cat-converter is not plugged,this would give you your powerloss and egr code,next is your coil,this may be caused by the computer or your crank sensor,look at the tone ring that the crank sensor uses and make sure its not missing teeth or broken,also check all your fuses.
Posted on Jun 12, 2010
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