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Is it an inline 6 cylinder? I would suggest you start with the cheapest and easiest. Change your airfilter, your fuel filter, your spark plugs, and spark plug wires. I am certain it could stand a good flushing of the motor. (You can buy any motor flush at any Walmart or autoparts store). You can just do a few of those things at a time and see how much better it does. I replaced everything I just listed on a car that had not even had an oil change in over 5 years. It ran like a new car after that. You may also want to change out the PCV valve, IF your car is equipped with it. (It's an easy fix. Shouldn't take more than 30 seconds after you find it.)
I saw what you replaced, didn't see any testing? Any applicable trouble codes?
Did you use a gage and check proper fuel pressure? My info on that engine size, said 35--45 psi. If the fuel pressure is too high, check the return line. As far as the fuel pressure regulator, do you have vacuum?
I'd use a couple of resistors representing full and empty. Take connector loose from fuel level sending unit at gas tank, two wires, use resistor between the proper two wires, turn key just to on, you shouldn't have to start it. If gage reacts properly to both resistors, I believe the problem is the sending unit in the gas tank. If it still doesn't function properly, have to check wiring circuits and instrument cluster. The resistor ohms, 16 ohm--and 158 ohms. These are just generic specs.
Some ford instrument clusters can do a self test. The only problem I have is, I don't which years this applies.
With the engine off, depress and hold the odometer reset button. Turn the key to the run position and hold until the gages sweep, within 5--8 seconds. Depress the reset button once to advance to each stage of the self test. Turn the ignition to the off position to exit self test. This test is w/o outside input, so if all gages sweep except the fuel gage, I suspect the instrument cluster has a problem. I'm not sure if your instrument cluster has the self test ability?
if the fuel pump cutoff was tripped it would not start at all, I know this for sure, I am a Ford dealer tech and I specialize in no starts and check eng lights. If the ignition switch is bad the 2 halves of the switch will be starting to come apart, it is very common, u should be able to either see it or feel it with your hand.
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