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You should really buy a 'Haynes Manual' if you are doing this kind of work on your car.
The item you are renewing is either a 'Track rod end ' or a 'Tie Rod'..
I presume you are going to change a Track Rod End.
Here we go !
.1) First Jack up the car and support on axle stands properly. You should ALWAYS do this. Jacks CANNOT be trusted EVER.
2) Undo the small nut on the top of the Ball joint. You then need to use a Ball Joint Splitter or a 'homemade metal wedge' and big Hammer, and insert it between the two parts (Track rod end and suspension extension) and separate the two parts. The 'bolt' that the nut was on is a tapered fit so it will be hard to separate the two. .
3) When separated, undo the locknut on the other end of the Track Rod end and 'unscrew' the whole Track rod end from the Tiie Rod.. IMPORTANT Make a note of how many turns it took to 'unscrew' the Track Rod end from the Tie Rod.
4) Screw the new Track Rod end into the Tie Rod as exactly the same number of turns to take out the old one if you can. (DONT forget to put the old locknut on to the new Track Rod End first !!!!)
5) Locate the thread of the new ball joint through the Suspension extension as was initially found and then fully tighten a NEW Nyloc nut on the top of the threaded part. (If you use the old nut and the steering comes apart at 70 MPH don't blame me)
6) Tighten the lock nut on the other end on the Track Rod End.
7) Take to a Tyre shop and have the TRACKING re-aligned. If you dont do this your tyres will only last for two weeks or so. !!!!!!
Hope you used factory sender. Aftermarket senders have contact problems. Audi updated their senders to gold contacts to improve performance. Moving it by hand may force good contact as opposed top free floating in tank
Hi, to me the problem sounds like the track rod ends need replacing these are what connects the steering to the hub now when you turn the wheel the track rod ends push the hubs in the way you want to turn but what happens ball joint on the track rod end get play in it is it allows the wheels to turn slightly on their own left and right now once these have been replaced you will have no problems. if the ball joints where to break you would lose control of the car as the steering wheel would not turn the wheels as instructed and they would be free to turn any way they liked, this would cause damage to the front wings and the hub costing a fortune to put right, but as it stands the track rod ends cost very little to buy and dont cost much to get replaced.
how ever this isnt the kind of job you can do yourself as you would need to get the tracking set up to ensure the wheels are driving in a strait line as their is adjusters that need to be set up after the track rod ends are fitted.
once you have the track rod ends ( tie rods also known as) fitted you will have no further problems and you will then be in full control of your vehicle it will feel a lot more responsive to your control so this needs doing sooner rather than later.
you may need a gear puller to get the gear off
make sure that you do not drop the key into the sump
use a 1/12 " impact wrench to remove the bolt as it is difficult to stop the crankshaft turning other wise
YOU NEED A HAYNES MANUAL BECAUSE IT WILL SHOW AND TELL YOU HOW TO REMOVE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.TO REMOVE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER YOU HAVE TO GO INSIDE THE VECHICLE AND REMOVE THE LEFT SIDE UNDER THE DASH PANEL.YOU HAVE TO UNCLIP AND SLIDE OUT PIN SECURING THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER TO THE CLUTCH PEDAL.AND YOU WILL HAVE TO UNSCREW THE MOUNTING BOLTS AND DETACH THE MASTER CYLINDER FROM THE FIRE WALL.YOU WILL NEED HAYNES MANUAL.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE OTHER THINGS BEFORE DOING THE JOB.YOU NEED FLARE OR INLINE WRENCH ALSO.
Remove the tie rod end and move the wheel manually. If you still have the squeak, you need the ball joints replaced. If not, it is in your tie rod ends, most likely not the inner as it doesn't rotate with the wheel.