Question about 1993 Ford Aerostar Extended

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A short in the charging system

Whats worng .how do i find a short when i drive the amp light is on than it will go off and start charging the batt than it gos back on i check the connections at the alt semed good and i cant find the voltage reg were is it at were could the short be

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Get your alternator checked - probably the brushes are worn out.
The voltage regulator is generally an integral part of the alternator brush-holder assembly.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1997 Jeep grand Cheeroke


My Answer:

Being an expert in this Electronics field this should be fairly easy.

It appears your charging system is functioning OK as you did the QUICKIE alternator/regulator test and that part appears to be fine.

Next - Never ASSUME you have a good, or NEW battery. I've seen brand new batts fail a few months after purchase for no known reason at all. Water level should be topped off esp during Hotter weather as water level will drop as the batt ages.

AND - when in doubt - Always do a hydrometer test on each cell, and make sure all cells read equally at approx 1.285 to 1.290 - indicating a fully charged batt.

When doing a LOAD TEST with an external 100 Amp Load Tester make sure you disconnect the POS terminal cable (or better yet both batt cables) on the batt before doing a good Load Test on a fully charged batt.

Batt voltage on a good fully charged batt should never drop much below 11.4 to 11.7 volts doing a 10 second load test using a Load Tester similar to say one bought at Harbor Freight Tools for like $15 when they are on sale.

If the top of the batt is wet (for whatever reason such as dew-point or leaky batt acid) this will cause the batt to self-discharge right across the top of the batt. Just like putting a small light-bulb across the batt posts and causing a drain. It happens more times than you care to know. When I worked at SEARS I seen it day in and day out......trust me I know!

Next - you'll want to check for a couple things at night, or else daylight will work as well - if you have good eyesight. You want to check and make sure your "backup lights" aren't ON when the Headlights Switch is turned OFF and the Ignition Switch is OFF as well. Sometimes a SHORTED Transmission Backup Light Switch will cause a battery drain with everything shut off. Sometimes!

Also - If you have any Interior Lights left on when the SUV doors are all closed that will surely drain the battery down.

A radio/stereo left ON will do the same as well.

A shorted tail-light (or any marker light) will also cause a battery to drain over time.

Jeeps that have a under the hood light Mercury Tilt Switch for the Engine compartment sometimes can have this switch mounting come loose and when you shut the hood the light will actually stay lit thus draining the batt down as well. Make sure you check it at NIGHT during darkness as it will show up better.

If all this proves NOT to be the cause then you will have to do an actual DVM inline amp meter test to see just how much current leakage (shorting) you have. A fuse block isolation test will next have to be done to isolate from which circuit leg the short (or current drain) is coming from.

Once that circuit is isolated then it's just a matter of finding the shorted device or shorted wire(s).

If you just added anything new electrical wise to the Jeep recently- then that is a good starting point - for if the problem wasn't there before that time, and now it is - then there is your culprit!

If you are using an external battery charging PV (Photo-voltaic) panel, and it's bad for any reason - then it will drain your battery down as well, esp if the blocking or back diode goes bad.

Also - If you have a dual battery system with a BATTERY ISOLATOR installed you might want to double check all your wiring there as well - as I've seen them go bad and cause many a battery problem!

It's gotta be something I just went over here - as I covered everything......

Let me know what it was OK?

Thx,

Frank

Jul 12, 2008 | 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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