My edge is equipped with dual climate control, however with the ac set all the way on cold, only the passenger side blows cold. The drivers side blows really hot air. What are some trouble shooting tips and solutions to this problem?
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sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
Your problem is a faulty heater control valve. The design used on these vehicles allows for hot water to flow constantly and compete with the evaporator as there is no blender door. You have to replace the valve and possibly the control head. Meanwhile, you can bypass the valve to have cold air
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Check the actuator motor on the heater it directs the air into the vents. There is probably two of them be sure to check both. The motor makes the vents move and again directs the air where you want. Hope this helps.
this problem is caused in almost all cases by a failed actuator that moves the door insiode the heating/ac duct to change the outlet temperature, it is called the Air Temperature Control Blend Door actuator.
before you tear apart the dash to get to your driver side servo motor-disconnect your battery for 5-minutes, with both front doors open reconnect your battery(this resets your on board computer),then turn your car on and turn your a/c on to high with the coldest setting on both sides for dual air systems and leave the car running for a few minutes. you will feel the air cold again. there is a sensor on the passenger side that will trigger the servo motor to not move if the front door is closed. servos usually get stuck after the power was cut off. if this does not do it, have your a/c sytem checked for leaks.
this is also worth considering:
Dual Climate System. If you're not familiar with this setup, there's a driver and passenger climate setting. The passenger setting knob is on the right of the climate control console. If you have already properly adjusted this setting, there's a problem with the servo motor being out of the preset range for the a/c & heater doors. Every time power is cut from the unit, the servo resets the doors by doing a "sweep" from full cold to full hot maximum range. Over time the servo will fall out of range from constant full range flexing, and the part that controls the range limit must be replaced. Reseting the main module by disconnecting the battery has a slim chance of successfully fixing the issue.
with a dual climate control system, it is imperative for a proper refrigerant charge to be maintained. the symptom you describe is a possible indicator of low charge on the system. the ac evaporator core is closest to the right side of vehicle thereby making air feel cooler on that side, on the left side of the vehicle the cooled air has farther to travel and warms up from cabin air before it discharged from the vents. this is the most probable issue for your vehicle...however if the charge is accurate, the issue would be more so in the air temperature doors which is located deep inside the dash...i hope this helps...good luck!