1996 nissan 200sx 1.6 liter will not start,got spark, got good pressure of fuel, baterry is 12.47 volts before crank and drop to 10.5 volts when cranking. look like it was flooded. remove spark plugs and replaced with new ones, air dried top of cylinders installed new dried plugs, spray some starting fluid on the air intake and crank, but will not start. please i nedd some help the car is about 50 miles from my house , i had to try again tomorrow. thanks if u can help.
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a fuel pressure gauge is $20
if pressures ok at fail, then it s NOT PRESSURE problem
you could by a scan tool (obd1) and see what happens at stalls.
one way to find stalls for sure pre 1996 is to measure voltages
on the ASD relay (the stall relay, LOL)
it if drops just before the stall that means the stall was
and if the ECU commanded it , it knows why and will tell you why.
if the stall is not due to ASD drop
then its may other causes.
when you said it had no spark, i bet $10 you did it wrong,?
takes 2 persons, one at key other testing
if not you can NOT run from key to spark plugs, in 2 seconds
the ASD drop out rules.
rule 1: key on and see the ASD close, (voltages)
it must close for 2 seconds cranked, must
and just stay closed, cranked, or if in 2 seconds it drops out
'that means the ECU dropped ASD for CAUSES, 1 to 8 reasons
the VTSS reason is not it, your car has no Immoblizer. feature. http://jeepdied.com/no-start.html
here is a list
engine bad, low compression on 1 or or cylinders. (ask how)
spark is bad, ever get a tuneup this decade? FULL(spark parts)
ASD drops early
ASD can drop at 80mph, so, ASD is always suscpec
loss of 12vdc power to the EFI system at any time it will stall.
can you save the stall with fast right foot, this test is like magic
in the diagnosis world, can you?
is engine flooding spark tips soaked, x4?
use wide open throttle to cut fuel cranked clears all floods i jeeps
(baring injector leaks sure)
no starts. cranks perfectly, full cranking speed, not 1 rpm but nearer 300.
ever do the 60k tuneup in the book.?
assuming the service was done and all cyl. are over 150PSI (WOT)
then we check spark first, not fuel..
The ECU brain cuts fuel (by design) any time spark is gone.
here is the proper flow:
1: throw, wild guess?, compression is good,. cam belt slip??????
is cam shaft turning,? look down oil fill hole. is it?
2: i check spark it's bad. (fix spark)
2a: i check spark its good', on all 4 cylinders not just 1.
3: spark was good. cam spins, pray compression is ok....
4: i connect scan tool, i crank for 5 seconds and see RPM rise ,good
i see ECT at say 50f (garage temp) and might see DTCs get thrown as i crank? , i see P0340 or p0355 ( one is dead CKP and other is CMP)
in my case no DTC thrown cranking , and i have spark and ECU
communicates. (key point) we alway s do that ,the tool is $9 (ask)
5: i then look at spark tips, they are:
1: soaking wet, its flooded, (spark was good but they are 10 year old.
2: dry, no fuel all spark tips day.
your engine has 4 cylinders, and all four most not flood or run dry.
i can listen to any cold start and hear gross misfire. but.....
if they are bone dry, i check voltage to the fuel pump.
it must be 12vdc cranking , 1/2 the cars you must crank. to get the pump to run ,(ECU hard logic!)
say I have 12vdc cranking
i check he fuel pressure, its not 30psi, its 5 psi (bad)
i rap the side of the fuel pressure regulator and it now is 30psi.
car starts. the reg was stuck wide open(its bad)
ok, still no start. or good pressure. Good is 30.
let say it was 60psi, i find i forgot to replace my dirty and packed up fuel filter
at the 60k mile service point. ( did i save $10 ? , no)
pretend filter is good..... pressure way low.... (examples)
so i read my FSM and it shows this shunt test, i then block (pinch)
the Fuel return line at the Fuel press. regulator.
i see 60psi, the pump is good. (do only for 5seconds ) (2 man test)
i see 10psi, the pump is bad ( of i have 12v at pump cranking,.....)
all this are pump tests there are 6 tests. not counting the injector balance test.
this is my order you can do it backwards, but will most the time have to start over, and cuss a $200 pump change , in vain.
here is the scotty way.
wont start, spark is good, tuneup done. sparks all 4 are wet
this is called flooding, the operators guide, says.
crank with the throttle open (WOT) car starts, it was flooded.
can happen in N.Canana (especially summer fuel in tank)
now car runs find and fresh fuel , 10 x better.
if no , post car keeps flooding, we can work that too.
is fuel pressure at 60psi, bingo, ask.
something to ponder over here as iam not sure what could be the problem here but if its a weak spark then it could be module /coil/crank sensor in that order .These problems will not show up as fault codes i dont think as they are working but not to full efficiency
Thats a classic sign of having your engine run too rich. That puffy layer of ash is carbon which means your engine is not burning gas properly or completely which means is misfiring thats why the car is shaking. Try having your oxygen sensors checked and make sure you are using good fuel.