Question about 2007 Chrysler 300 Touring
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Trouble Code p1004
This from an owner with the same code, indeed it is the intake maniflod that causes the issue.
P1004 is a intakemanifold short runner valve performance. they replaced the intake manifold plenum. cost $1200, but they repaired under warranty in the interest of customer satisfaction. my base warranty is out by milage, yet they repaired it for free. now that is a great dealership. I would talk to the dealer, this is a manufactirer defect, also it may be covered under federal emission warr. 7/70,000
Posted on Nov 27, 2008
SOURCE: engine code P1004
This code P1004 -Short Runner Valve Performance.
Requires PCM reprogram done under service bulletin 18-003-07REV. A, go to the dealer and have this preformed and your code should go away, should be covered as warranty.
Posted on May 20, 2009
Code p1004 is "short runner valve performance"
There are 2 things Chrysler says in their bulletin :
1) RE-flash computer with a special "patch" from the
scan tool, and 2) Replace the intake plenum ( very expensive !)
This is the info I have, check back with a factory authorized Chrysler service center, and Please let me know what you find out.
Posted on Feb 06, 2010
SOURCE: my check engine ligtht continues
I had the same problem and was able to fix it in less than 15 minutes and for $4.99. Locate the SRV ( this is the actuator on the intake closest to the center line of the engine) and disconnect the electrical connector by sliding the red clip on the side toward the wires. You will then push down on the release tab and will be able to pull the connector off. Remove the four 10 mm hex bolts and pull the actuator straight off. There is resistance from an o-ring but it does come out. You will notice oil and crud running out just wipe this up. Spray intake manifold cleaner on the flapper valve and wiggle it to loosen the crud. This may take a couple of minutes but you will feel it free up and move effortlessly and the you are finished with the flapper. wipe the actuator off and turn the rectangular stem sticking out by hand back and forth to free it up as well. Wipe the o-ring off and put it on the actuator body and insert the actuator drive tab in the flapper valve and adjust the position that you pulled it off from. install the bolts lightly torquing them back into the (plastic!!!) housing. re-connect the plug and reset the red tab. All done. The trouble light should clear. If not you may need to replace the actuator (around $150) using the same process.
Posted on Sep 23, 2012
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