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Could be bad electrical part failing as it gets hot. Coils, ignition modules, crank/cam sensors all can do this. Quite common. Check if you have spark to plugs when it fails. If not, start testing parts. Problem is, they will cool and then test ok so this can be hard to find. Start with ignition module which parts stores often test for free. Run test several times to heat the unit up.
You have a lot of work to do here. First, if you are not going to work on this yourself, find someone who is familiar with your vehicle...It helps a lot! I'd go after starting and performance items first (the rest does not matter if you can't drive it). About engine oil: the first # on the label is how it pours when cold the second is the amount of wear protection it offers when hot (simple version). Many companies offer a "high mile" oil which contains seal conditioners. (a good thing) Use a high quality oil (they contain less parafin : that causes sludge) In very cold climates oil will thicken enough to make turning the engine difficult. If the engine spins freely when starting I would not be concerned about it. Super unleaded fuel is not necessary: you have a low compression engine that does not require a high octane fuel. The added expense is not justified because it does nothing beneficial for you. If you want to go over some items yourself, get a vehile specific manual such as haynes. There are lots of helpful instructions in there. If you have specific items you need help with we're here!!! good luck with it!!
A clogged fuel injector would make the engine shake, and your power would be compromised.
Whe you changed the plugs, did you put Toyota plugs in, or a different brand? More often than not, using any other plug than plugs bought at a Toy dealer can make the engine run worse. The engines are designed with a specific plug. Also, replace the wires if they are older than 5 years.
Although this isn"t a proper fix, and may affect emissions, I ran accross this problem on a friend's 87 2wd wagon.
There is a dashpot that controls a lever the Idle set screw is on, I am guessing it is a decel valve that closes butterfly when coasting in gear. I never looked at a manual to figure out what controls the vacuum valve that is on the passenger side of the engine compartment, but if you disconect the vacuum line and plug it that lever will not back off and idle will remain where you set it with the adjustment screw.
Make sure the engine is warmed up and not on a fast idle cam before adjusting idle.
The car is a 5 speed, I not sure if automatic cars are the same.
The car idles fine now and still run's great and gets 37+ MPG with 240000 miles!
If you want to fix it properly you would have to diagnose why that dashpot is being actuated at idle
I had this problem with my 85 tercel. I had to take it to an auto electrician who traced the wires for me. Basically one of the wires running to the driver side turn signal was shorting out causing no signals to work. Also check your bulbs because if one bulb goes out it effects the others.
Hope this helps!