Question about 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier

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Left hand drum brake won't realece

I went to change the back brakes and the left one wouldn't come off esly then when i went to put the drum back on it wont because the brake is on just on that side.

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You probably need to back brake adjuster off so it will allow you to get the drum back on. The adjuster is in the center at the bottom and it ratchets up and down. You either access it from the backing plate area or from the front after putting the drum back on but either way there is a rubber plug cover that you will have to remove first to get to it. Good Luck

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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Make sure the parking brake is not on if not you can turn the star wheel adjuster on the bottom of the assembly to reduce the diameter of the assembly

Posted on Jun 20, 2009


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Replace slave cylinder

Ok, the job is fairly simple if you follow the, safety first, Rule 1.

Do not breath in any material that is contained within the brake drum assembly.

Loosen wheel nuts on the wheel or wheels on which you wish to change the slaves. Chock the front wheels to immobilize the car(don't attempt to do this fix on slopping ground, Rule 1), let the hand brake off and disengage the gears. Jack the wheel or wheels off the ground and place jack stands(you can use other means of support, but I mean substantial support, bare in mind the weight involved and possibility of minor movement, Rule 1) under one or both ends of the axle. Remove the wheel or wheels.

Remove the brake fluid hose from the slave at the rear of the brake unit. Crimp the rubber hose to avoid excess fluid lose or you will drain the brake system and it is a pain to fix, not hard, but just a huge pain in the proverbial.

Look at your brake drum, some have small flush retainer screws which hold the brake drum to the axle end, if so remove them. Look at the back of the brake backing plate, there will be a rubber grommet that allows access to the brake adjuster, remove it. There is a special brake adjuster you can buy for a few $s, but a screw driver with a wide blade will suffice. Adjust the brake shoes off turning the star shaped adjustment wheel, if you turn the adjuster the wrong way it will lock the drum up, just reverse the direction of adjustment the right way to off, a couple of full turns is sufficient. Remove the brake drum, now more times than not they don't fall off easily because of corrosion and crud build up. If so, give the drum some gentle taps(I do mean gentle, this is a cast item and will shatter if it is hit too hard. You will be buying a new one if you break it) with a hammer to loosen and remove. Wipe clean and inspect the brake drum for wear and scoring, if it is too great you may have to have it replaced or honed. Check brake shoes for wear that sufficient material is still left. If they are down might be an idea to replace them, that is if you don't want to repeat most of this again later :-). Do not allow any oil or grease to contact the inner drum contact area. There are specialized brake component cleaners for sale.

Now you can see the business side to the brake assembly. You will see the brake adjuster, slave, 2 shoes, 2 springs(1 top and 1 bottom), 2 or 4 retainer pins and the hand break cable and arm. Take special attention of how the the springs are mounted, better still, take photos. Disengage the hand brake cable from the control arm and pull cable with the associated grommet out of the brake system, one less thing in the way. Remove the top and bottom springs, these are nasty powerful springs, refer Rule 1, pointy nosed pliers or multi-grips should suffice. Your adjuster can now be removed. Only thing holding in the shoes now is the retainer pins, put your finger on the pin at the back of the brake backing plate, with pliers, push and turn the lock washer on the inside 1/4 turn and it will all come apart. Take note of the disassembly of these components, they go back in the exact same way they come apart. The shoes will fall out. Now all you have left is the offending slave, remove the 2 bolts holding it in place and replace with the new item. Reassemble in the reverse order, make sure everything is clean, oil and grease free. You can use a good screw driver to put the springs back in, again refer Rule 1.

If you replace the shoes, you may have to wind the adjuster in some more to get the drum back on.

Nearly there, all that remains is to bleed the brake fluid line, slave and adjust the brake shoes.

Make sure you have sufficient brake fluid on hand and in the master cylinder. The level will drop in the master, so keep an eye on it and maintain a good level in the master. I, myself prefer to gravity bleed brakes, but that is me, it takes time, but you can bleed them quicker with the help of another person. Have person slowly pump brake peddle till they have pressure, undo bleed nipple, peddle will drop to the floor, hold on floor till you tighten bleed nipple. Repeat until you have fluid free of air, remember the MASTER. Brake peddle should have constant pressure and not feel spongy or slowly go to the floor. If it does, check for leaks or it is possible to still have air in the line. Bleed until you have a firm peddle. If the peddle is good, then all that is left is to adjust the shoes. Adjust until drum locks, push brake peddle, wind back adjuster until drum runs free.

All done, you will notice the peddle has increased after the shoes are adjusted, all good. Put the wheels on, drop to the ground, final tighten on the wheel nuts. engage gear, put hand brake on, remove chocks.

I can't stress how important it is to get the brakes right. A car without good brakes is only a missile looking to kill you or someone else. If in doubt, ask someone. Rule 1 always.

Feb 10, 2014 | 1994 Nissan Pickup

2 Answers

How to change rear parking brakes

Here's how to change brakes.Here's the disc.

Dec 29, 2012 | 2004 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

My insignia hand brake has locked on how do i release rear offside only

you need to take off the rear wheel and there is a hand brake hole in the drum on the disc. you locate the hole with the adjuster.. make sure the hand brake is not on. the leaver for the hand brake take the cable off if the brake is locked the leave will let you take it off. then get a peace of wood and put it on the leaver and hit it back with hammer on the wood not the leaver. then take the screw out for the locator of the disc. and hit the disc with rubber or plastic hammer going round the disc. not to hard just to get it to move when of find out why the hand brake is locked in the first place. ( prob be the shoe's pins ) change the parts. while parts off give good clean and put some copper grease on the parts that move. huck back up the cable and check disc drum part for damage. screw the adjuster back down and refit. when disc back on adjust the brake with the hole lined up and move back and forth until the brake is locked then turn back one point on the adjuster check the disc turns and then use the hand brake. if still an bit hard to move after hand brake off nock the adjuster back down one more and test again. if all well put wheel back on.

Jun 04, 2012 | 2003 Vauxhall Vectra

1 Answer

I was checking back brakes, emergency brakes. The axel on the passenger rear is welded to drum. Why wouldyou do that. Cannnot put check back brakes or install new emergency brakes on back passenger side....

They wouldn't and couldn't, or the rear drum would not turn and the car would not move. You need a special fork tool to go behind the drum and adjust the star fitting in order to release the drum and then you will be able to check the linings and cable.

Jul 30, 2011 | 1989 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

Replacing rear brakes

It is a good idea to only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other side intact as a reference.

  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the brake drum.
  3. Disconnect the parking brake rear cable and conduit.
  4. Remove the brake shoe hold-down springs and brake shoe hold-down pins.
  5. Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw spring.
  6. Remove the brake shoe adjusting lever and adjuster screw.
  7. Remove the brake shoe retracting spring.
  8. Remove the brake shoes from the backing plate.
  9. Remove and discard the parking brake lever clip. Remove the washer.
  10. Remove the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe.

To install:
  1. Thoroughly clean the backing plate with brake cleaning solvent and dry completely.
  2. Use silicone grease to lubricate the brake backing plate-to-brake shoe contact areas.
  3. Apply a light coating of premium grease to the threaded areas of the adjuster. Turn the adjuster in and out to spread the lubricant. Turn the adjuster all the way down on the screw and loosen one-half turn.
  4. Install the parking brake lever to the rear (secondary) brake shoe with a new clip.
  5. Position the brake shoes on the backing plate and install the brake shoe hold-down springs.
  6. Attach the parking brake rear cable and conduit to the parking brake lever.
  7. Attach the brake shoe retracting spring.

The socket end of the brake adjuster screw is stamped with "R" or "L" to indicate that it is to be installed either on the right (passenger's side) or left (driver's side) of the vehicle. The adjuster nuts can be distinguished by the number of grooves machined around the body of the nut. Two grooves indicate a right-hand adjuster nut and one groove indicates a left-hand adjuster nut. Another way to identify brake adjuster assemblies is to check thread pitch. The right side adjuster assembly has right-hand threads and the left side has left-hand threads. If installed correctly, the brake adjuster assembly will increase in length when the brake shoe adjusting lever is operated.
  1. Install brake adjuster screw in the slots on the brake shoes. The wider slot on the socket end must fit in the slot on the front (primary) brake shoe.
  2. Install the brake shoe adjusting lever on the lever pin.
  3. Install the brake adjusting screw in the slot on the secondary brake shoe and in the slot on the brake shoe lever. The brake shoe adjusting lever should contact the brake adjuster screw.
  4. Adjust the brake shoes.
  5. Install the drums.


The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation.
Drum Installed

  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
  3. Insert a Brake Adjustment Tool (D81L-1103-C) or equivalent into the slot and engage the lowest possible tooth on the starwheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the starwheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheels.
  4. Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjusting lever out and free of the starwheel on the adjusting screw and hold it there.
  5. Engage the topmost tooth possible on the starwheel with the brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the adjusting screw starwheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back off the adjusting screw starwheel until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of turns that the starwheel is backed off, or the number of strokes taken with the brake adjusting spoon.
  6. Repeat this operation for the other side. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the starwheel adjuster must be backed off the same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
  7. When the brakes are adjusted, make several stops while backing the vehicle to equalize the brakes on both of the wheels.
  8. Lower the vehicle.

Drum Removed
See Figure 2

0900c152800ae432.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: When using a brake adjustment gauge, first measure the inside diameter of the drum (top) and then adjust the brakes shoes to the proper outside diameter (bottom)

  1. Remove the brake drum.
  2. Make sure that the shoe-to-contact pad areas are clean and properly lubricated.
  3. Using a Brake Adjustment Gauge (D81L-1103-A) or equivalent, check the inside diameter of the drum.
  4. Measure across the diameter of the assembled brake shoes, at their widest point.
  5. Turn the adjusting screw so that the diameter of the shoes is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the brake drum inner diameter.
  6. Install the drum.


See Figure 3

0900c152800ae433.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Measure brake shoe thickness in several places around the shoe
Inspect the brake shoes for wear using a ruler or Vernier caliper. Compare measurements to the brake specifications chart. If the lining is thinner than specification or there is evidence of the lining being contaminated by brake fluid or oil, replace all brake pad assemblies (a complete axle set).

Dec 19, 2010 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

How do you get the drum off the rear stubs of a Ford Festiva 1998 model to check the brakes

I have not worked on a festiva but i;ve done a lot of brake jobs Look for two holes in the drum it self SOMETIMES there press fit to the wheel hub and you can screw bolts into these holes and this will back the drum off Or look for a little rubber plug on the back of the brake plate under the axle but in the plate Take it out and there will be an adjuster in side called a STAR WHEEL it makes your breaks self adjust every time you back up and put the breaks on One turns right handed the oppisite side turns left handed this means the threads of course If you lossen these the drums will come off with out any force

Oct 30, 2010 | Ford Festiva Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

After aplying E-brake, Left rear wheel is locked up?

The parking brake cable is not releasing, usually due to corrosion within the cable jacket or inside the drum if it has drum rear brakes. Put the rear end up on jack stands and have a helper push and release the parking brake and watch what the cable is doing on both sides. You should be able to see the hang up. If it is inside the brake drum you may want to try a bit of WD40 applied to the cable where it enters the backing plate. Do not go overboard with it as it will collect inside on the drum's braking surface.

Aug 11, 2010 | 2002 Dodge Neon

3 Answers

How do I get the rear brake cylinder depress back in when putting on new brakes.

If it does not push back with a c-clamp,then it will turn to go back in,the right side,and the left side will turn either left,or right hand to go back in,depending on witch side you are working on.

Nov 29, 2009 | 2004 Ford Freestar

2 Answers

I have a 2006 saturn ion, my daughter has it at college in pennsy, she parked it on a driveway last night before it snowed and she engaged the emerg brake since it was a sloped driveway, today she went to...

Have her try putting it into drive, attempt to go foreward, plant her foot firmly on the brake, put it back into neutral, then try to release hand brake. Other than that, the only thing she can do is to try and warm up brake cables (shielded part near the backing plates) with a hair dryer.(in park, so it dosen't roll over her) This generally happens when water gets into cable shield and freezes Once free, spray some wd40 or other solvent into cable opening and on cables themselves.

Jan 28, 2009 | Saturn Ion Cars & Trucks

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