Question about 2007 Hyundai Getz 1.3
Power steering belt removal
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The power steering pump has an adjustment for tension. You need to be able to swing the pump inwards to loosen the tension. If you look at the pump from the front you should see a hinge bolt, that's closest to the engine. That merely needs to be loosened up. The outer one is for tension, you loosen that and sometimes you have to remove it completely. When you install the new belt be careful of what you use to re-tension it; you can't use a something that will dent or bend the pump housing, you'll ruin it. Use some thing that distributes the force over a large area.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
I do not know what Diagram you are referring to. Also I am not sure if you have the Sonata with the 2.4L DOHC In-Line 4, or the Sonata GLS with the 2.5 SOHC V6.
In any case:
Click on the following Free-Direct Link. It has the Serpentine Belt Diagrams. Compare these with your Vehicle and/or Diagrams you have.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Posted on Apr 03, 2010
i am having a similar problem. my power steering pully is loose. im pretty sure i have to replace the pump and the pully however my power steering still works but the belt squeals.check all the pullys they drive the belt or belts. its usually always either the tensioner thats the pully that allows you to remove the drive belt or the power steering pully which sucks the most because you must remove the entire power steering pump to replace the pully and since you have to go through all that trouble you might as well replace the entire power steering pump as well. i am not a mechanic so try and find more information.
Posted on Oct 15, 2010
No, there are no bearings in the crankshaft pulley. No, it's not a common problem. The pulley is simply loose!
First determine if the pulley bolts to the harmonic dampener or if it's all one piece.
If one piece, then there is probably 1 bolt in the center of the dished portion that has loosened. If not repaired, the harmonic dampener can fall off, possibly damaging the end of the crankshaft.
If it's not 1 piece, then there will probably 3 or maybe 4 bolts in a circular pattern around the edge of the pulley bolting it to the harmonic dampener. Check to make sure all bolts are there and tighten down. A flexible mechanics mirror comes in handy for seeing exactly whats in the dish of the pulley.
If I were you, I wouldn't start the engine until this is properly resolved.
Posted on Jan 31, 2011
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Belt tension is very important, as a belt that is too tight will put too much stress on the bearings of the components it drives, causing them to wear out prematurely. A belt that is too loose will slip, causing (1) the belt to wear out quickly due to friction heat, and (2) inefficient alternator, air pump, cooling fan or air conditioner operation because much of the turning power supplied by the main drive pulley is lost.
The belts should be inspected and/or adjusted at 2,000 miles (3,221 km) and then every 4,000 miles (6,441 km). First, make sure that the belt is properly positioned in the pulley. Check the pulleys for damage. Inspect the belts for cracks and signs of fraying. These usually develop on the inner surface and extend into the backing or outer surface of the belt. Check also for glazing, a completely smooth appearance which indicates slippage. A belt that is in good shape will have a slightly grainy appearance like cloth. Replace belts that show cracks or glazing.
Check belt tension. Apply pressure with your thumb at the mid-point between two pulleys, and the belt should stretch or deflect about 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 in. (6-13mm). If the belt is too tight or too loose, adjust/replace as necessary.
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
To adjust belts, first locate the mounting bolt on the air pump or alternator (each has its own belt and adjusts to permit that belt to be tensioned correctly). This bolt attaches the unit to the engine and has a nut on the end. Put a wrench on either end and loosen the bolt until there is practically no tension on it. Then, loosen the adjusting bolt, which is located on the opposite side of the unit and which passes through a slot. Pull the alternator or air pump away from the engine and tighten the adjusting bolt just enough to hold the unit while you check tension. Repeat the adjustment procedure until the belt deflects the proper amount, then fully tighten the adjusting and mounting bolts. Avoid too much belt tension or overtightening of bolts. A new belt should be tensioned just slightly more (about 0.4 in. or 10mm deflection) and checked after several hundred miles of operation to make sure that tension is still adequate. (Tension is lost very rapidly until a new belt is broken in.)
Fig. Fig. 3: On some GLC engines equipped with power steering, the pump pulley uses a slotted adjusting bar, adjusting bolt and locknut to adjust belt tension
Late model GLCs, 323s, 626s, MX-6s and 929s may use an adjusting bolt on either the idler pulley (a pulley which is not directly associated with any of the accessories) or on the power steering pump itself. This bolt makes adjustment much easier because you don't have to hold the accessory under a great deal of tension while tightening the mounting bolts.
On models where the idler pulley has a locknut at its center, simply loosen the locknut, then turn the adjusting bolt clockwise to increase belt tension or counterclockwise to decrease it or remove the belt. Do not forget to retighten the locknut when tension is correct, or vibration may cause it to fall off. Recheck the tension with the locknut tightened and readjust if necessary.
To adjust the power steering pump pulley on the GLC, loosen the slotted adjusting bar bolt, the mounting bolt across from it, and the locknut at the bottom of the adjusting bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt counterclockwise to remove the belt or reduce tension, and clockwise to increase it. When tension is correct, tighten the adjusting bolt locknut, adjusting bar bolt, and pump mounting bolt.
On 626, MX-6 and 929 models with a 4-ridge or 5-ridge ribbed type V-belt driving both the air conditioner and power steering pump, belt tension is much greater. With a used belt, deflection should only be about 1 / 4 in. (6.35mm).
See Figures 4, 5 and 6
The RX-7 may be equipped with as many as three or four separate drive belts. The belts are arranged at the front of the engine and drive the cooling fan/water pump, alternator, power steering pump, emission control air pump and air conditioner compressor (if so equipped).
Fig. Fig. 4: Checking belt tension on 1979-85 RX-7
Check the tension of each belt at the arrows numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 (depending on year) shown in the illustration. Press on the belt with your thumb using moderate pressure (about 22 lbs.). The belts should give or deflect the amounts shown in the chart.
Fig. Fig. 6: RX-7 belt deflection limits
Use the following appropriate procedure and illustration to make drive belt adjustment(s).
ALTERNATOR AND AIR PUMP
See Figure 7
Fig. Fig. 7: Adjusting alternator drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7
When prying on the alternator or air pump, make sure the prybar is anchored against the engine case and not against a component (distributor cap, etc.) which could break.
Fig. Fig. 8: Adjusting air conditioning compressor drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7
Fig. Fig. 9: Adjusting power steering pump drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7
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