Question about 2010 Nissan Cube

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2010 nissan cube starts and idles, but no throttle response at all

No throttle response even in park or neutral. Starts and idles fine.

Posted by Anonymous on

  • Martin Martin
    Martin Martin Apr 22, 2017

    Am heaving the same issue

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  • 100 Answers

Your throttle body solenoid has taken a dump... change it.. or have someone change it out and it should be fine.

Posted on Apr 22, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 97 nissan maxima

throttle position sensor,or egr valve,also check your air filter,if this helps please gine me a fix ya vote

Posted on Jul 14, 2008

  • 383 Answers

SOURCE: starting and idle

Brianellwood: Z car? From the lingo, you don't sound like you are from or are in the USA. From my experience with Nissan/Datsun since 1968 including the U.S.V.I, where I also had been in the British West Indies, the Blue Bird, if my schooling and recall are correct, is a Datsun 510 with an L-16 engine in it. (It's a bomb proof motor!) It uses a 2 barrel Hatchi down draft carburetor with a vacuum actuated secondary and an electric choke which get it's power supply when the charging system is charging. Most of them had a 110 main jet and a 150 secondary jet.. These carburetors were very simple to service on the car and well engineered in general.
The design is such that when the engine is cold, the choke closed, which in turn will mechanically raise the idle speed to about 1,000-1,200 RPM. Depending on how cold it is, will depend on how quickly the engine will return to a normal idle. It does require depressing the gas pedal in order to release the tension from the fast idle cam spring as the choke heats up. There is a component called a "CHOKE BRAKE" which is designed to keep the choke from opening prematurely when cold when the throttle is blipped.
The normal idle for this engine is 7- 800 RPM. There were some factory options with SU's but they were never brought into the USA. I have installed many SU intake manifolds and 45mm SU's and SSS cams. The 510's did not have electronic ignitions, they used points. The "DWELL" angle is between 49 and 55 degrees.
It's been years since I worked on one of these cars, but I believe the ignition timing was 12 degrees BTDC @700RPM for most of the cars in that time frame with that engine. The total timing with mechanical and vacuum advance was 38 degrees. (I still own a 1970 Datsun 521 pick up which I bought NEW for a dollar a pound in St. Croix USVI! $2,158.00 pea green with AM radio, heater and white wall tires).
It takes more fuel to run a cold motor than a warm one. However, if the engine is not in proper tune, it will not perform well no matter if the carburetor were new out of the box. The older systems were simple to work on but more prone to failures. Points wear out from running on the distributor cam and arcing. This in turn changes the time in which the coil is triggered and when it fires the spark plugs.
The ignition coils back then were much lower energy: 20,000 volts VS 60,000 + in today's standards. Stay away from cheap parts!
Plug wires made by NGK are good quality. The original made by Yazaki or Sumitomo are excellent. I have not seen much better in the after market which would surpass their quality. Points made by Hatachi or Daichi as well as the condenser , cap and rotors. Spark plugs by NGK (BPR6ES11) is the best or an equivalent in Denso spark plugs. I use Denso plugs in my Nissan road race cars because they don't blister or burn up.
Additionally, the valve clearances on this engine must be set roughly at 12,000 mile intervals. I set my valves "HOT" and set the exhaust first and intake second. I set the valves by firing order and set the clearances with the cam lobes pointed at 12:00 always to insure I am at the bottom of the base circle of the cam, thus insuring near perfect clearances. Even though the specifications are .10 intake hot and .12 exhaust hot, I set them .09 intake and .11 exhaust. To insure my accuracy in setting the valves and not to have set them too tight, I use an exhaust gasses analysis, checking HC's. They should be below 300 PPM.
I hope I might have shed some light on the subject. There has always been a soft spot in my heart for the older Datsun 510's, 1200's and other older Datsun's and Toyota's
I took a pot shot at this question because I am not quite sure what it is you are seeking an answer for. I hope some of what I have said has some value for you. >>>>>>>>mybunkey

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: poor idle

my truck was doing the same thing, i tried to adjust the idle screw and replace the ignition system but it didnt help. What i did was replace the carb with a webber and the problem was solved. I'm not saying to buy a webber but you might just need to rebuild your carb or something similar

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 nissan pathfinder fuel problem

I no what your problem is!! Your catalytic converter's are plugged!! Thats it brother! I had the same problem. Pull your 02 sensor's out on the manifold's and that will tell you if that's it. Let me no if this is it
garybaumgartnerjr9@gmail.com

Posted on Dec 14, 2010

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: My 2000 Nissan xterra started shaking while idling

Also- the rattle is most likely the valve lifters. The lifters on this engine and the model previous (I have owned both to 180k miles or more) lose pressure when the motor is off. They re-pressureize with engine oil after the motor starts and tap a little until they "pump up" to full size. Just don't drive until the rattle dies down and as long as it is under 30 seconds or so- you will be fine there.

Posted on Dec 23, 2011

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1 Answer

No response on the throttle but idles ok!


you posted to USA forum with a car we dont have,
so ill attempt to answer based on rules of Mr, Otto Cycle engines.
gas.(petrol)
even fails in park or neutral ,no way to race engine fast at all?
be key evidence that.... yah?
car dont move, right? in any gear, is transmission a stick or auto.
we cant guess transmission either.
so ill pretend engine power is nill.
top causes. in no order.
  1. bad fuel
  2. low fuel pressure
  3. no tune this decade, spark and filters.
  4. CEL lamp in cluster glows running and you ignoring it.
  5. scan the PCM
  6. check fuses.
  7. get car serviced.
  8. bad engine.
  9. is idle speed normal hot? engine?

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