The tube by the big wheels move up and down when I drive should it be doing this I'd never noticed it before

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Replace front axle seals 1998 Dodge Ram 4X4, part 1 ...

? 14:28
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvRyg95cUIQ
Nov 1, 2010 - Uploaded by spelunkerd
If you have gear oil leaking from a front axle tube then this is a ...a circular hole saw (he says about 2-2 1/4"), grinding the teeth down, ... Hey my 2001 ram has a big puddle coming from it'sdriver side wheel could this be it?.

what kind of 4x4 is it. you may have bad cv joints up front and under full load they are seizing which is causing the motor to stop. Can you put it in 2 wheel drive and does it do the same thing. Also, maybe your tires are too big or the rims are not for the vehicle and so your tires are rubbing during full steering.

My hunch would be rear wheel bearings. Lift and spin each wheel listening for noise is all I can suggest at this point.

It is not the ABS causing this problem.

It should move in and out (it pulls out and pushes in) It doesn't move up and down. Reply back if it won't do either.

It could be several things. First check your shocks by pushing down on the bumper with your knee 3 quick times to make it bounce. It should come up and down once, stopping in the middle of the second up. If it moves any more than that the shocks or struts need replacing.

Then check your tie rod ends and ball joints. There are 4 tie rod ends on your vehicle. They are attached to the front wheel and the steering box. There is an outer one on the wheel and an inner one at the steering rack. Try to move them side to side or up and down. Any movement means they need to be replaced.

To check the ball joints, you will have to jack the wheel up so it is clear of the ground. Grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move it in and out. If it moves, then have someone watch as you move it and see if the movement is at the bottom ball joint or the top one, if your car has an upper ball joint. Front wheel drive cars with spring/strut suspension don't have upper ball joints.

I would be inclined to suspect the tie rod ends as being your problem, but it could easily be multiple things so check them all. Hope this helps.

Ticking in motor after engine heats up- do you keep your oil changed every 3,000 miles? Broken down and dirty oil will cause this. Squeek over bumps could be bad strut or it could be related to the harsh grinding noise going around turns. That is indicative of a bad CV joint or wheel bearing.
Raise car on side noise is coming from. Grab wheel with both hands and pull/push on wheel then wiggle back and forth. Feel excessive play? Grab drive axle also doing same thing feel for play or notice if rubber boot on drive axle torn or separated from axle. Usually you will feel play or notice a kind of clunking. I would say replace CV joint and wheel bearing at the same time as one will usually affect the other and both will be bad if one has went out. Not an easy fix and requires special tools. Take to a qualified mechanic, it will save you a big headache.

You either have a bad wheel bearing, or a bad brake pad. Does it do this only when you apply the brakes, or making turns, or is it continues. If its only while using the brakes, most likely the brake pads are worn. If it only does this while making turns, may be wheel bearing. Remove the front driver wheel and inspect the brake pad liners. check the thickness of the pads, make sure the pads are not metal to metal. to check the wheel bearing, while wheel is still on the car, put the front of car on jack stands, while wheel is off the ground spin the wheel and listen for any noise that sounds like the sound it was making while driving. If it makes this noise, you then can take a steel tube about 3 to 5 feet long, put it under the wheel and lift up and down on the wheel, and notice if it has any movement or play as you lift it up and down, if it moves, then likely its the wheel bearing.

Hello
A VERY COMMON FAULT!
Kia us a dim design that works on air, so the light on the dash may light up green...mine does...but no 4x4.
Test one, look inside the engine bay,(2Litre petrol) on your left hand side, to the left of the actual engine is the solenoid device that "switches on" the vacuum to the front hubs. This is easier that you would think. If you look at the left side of the engine, there are two pipes coming out (left side) one is thick (break system. DONT touch) one is thinner and soft rubber. Follow this tube, it goes into a small black cannister which is a resvoir and one way valve...the tube then outputs into another device (solenoid) which has 2 wires on. The tube then splits under this in two. The test is simple, with the engine running, and 4 wheel drive engaged pull the tube apart after the solenoid. Put your finger there you should feel a nice strong ****. If it does **** put it back on. If it does not **** it needs to be removed and cleaned. This is simple to unbolt and all you do is pull the rubber bung of the bottom, and the two tubes and spray break cleaner inside. reassamble until you get to feel the vaccum.

test 2 Now look behind each wheel, you will see a thick hose wrapped in a spring, this is the break system, do not touch this. There is a thinner flexible hose attached behind the wheel, you will notice that these have no securing system just push fit. Remove each of the in turn and test for vacuum.

Leaks here are common and easy to fix.

The bad news if you have vacuum, and still no 4 wheel drive one or both front wheel hubs has a leak, and the bad news is, it needs a garage to fix it, and to replace the seal a £5 part you have to ruin a £100 part.

Test the vaccum, pray. Otherwise ask, doe you really need to spend £250 to sort this?

Good luck