Question about 1998 Ford Crown Victoria
After replacing the timing chain kit and ac compressor, there is still an rattle like rocks in a can after the car accelerates over 45 mph after it is at normal operating temperature.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
as for the rattling sound have you checked the heat shield on the catalytic converter, mine was loose and was causing a rattling sound when it was at idle, and would go away as the rpm's increased.
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
You can purchase the wiring diagram for $5.99 from the following site: http://www.wiring-diagram.com/. You can also purchase a wiring diagram book from the following link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2008-FORD-CROWN-VICTORIA-MARQUIS-WIRING-DIAGRAM-MANUAL_W0QQitemZ120394723100QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090320?IMSfp=TL090320147007r15080.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
If the compressor doesn't engage..it could be the pressure switch and or it could also be low in a134 to the system.
Best would be to jump the clutch wire from the compressor (i.e. direct tht wire on the positive terminal or any nearest available 'live' point).
Let the car's engine run and also the AC control switch to "ON' postion having the blower fan inside the car running.
Once done all this check if the compressor is now running and if theres cooling inside the car and also best would be to check the sight glass for any bubbles , this is normally situated around the filter/drier at around the condensor infront of the radiator or within the area.
If the compressor runs and theres cooling thn theres a problem with your pressure switch, if theres low cooling thn you may need to recharge the a134 and run a leakage test.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Aug 23, 2009
Also check to see if there is power in the start wire form the ignition switch, the wire is a white wire with pink stripe, most likely not a common problem, but still something that could go wrong. this wire will feed the starter relay under the hood...
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
First make an appointment for a front end alignment which will be required after replacing the ball joint. Securely support the vehicle under the lower control arm at the outer end, the end nearest the tire. The upper ball joint is attached to the upper control arm with 2 large nuts. Under the nuts are cams with hex heads for adjusting caster and camber. Mark the position of these cams in a way that will allow you to reinstall them somewhere near the same position. Next remove the outer end of the joint from the steering knuckle an then remove the 2 nuts and both cams from the control arm end. Reinstall and get that alignment asap !
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
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