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Re: how to remove bearings
1937? are you kidding?
rear mains can be 2 types. (split or not split)
and my on line Austin , pages, are blank.
you should buy a book on this car, really.
pull crank and bearings.
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1948 austin devon a40 tappet clearance
I found the owners manual
Decarbonising, Valve Grinding and Tappet Adjustment: This attention may not be needed so frequently on vehicles used for long journeys. As a general guide, a falling off in engine power with pinking indicates when decarbonising is due. The correct tappet clearance is .015 in. with the engine hot or cold.
A van and pickup truck were also produced. The Devon was the first post-war-designed Austin to be assembled in New Zealand. It was produced from CKD kits at the Austin Distributors Federation assembly plant in Petone. Some examples are still on the road. A prototype A40 Dorset Tourer was built at Longbridge in 1948.
Engine: 1.2 L (1200 cc) Straight-4 Production: 1947-52 Wheelbase: 92.5 in (2,350 mm) Length: 153 in (3,886 mm)
THE AUSTIN A40' MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS Gear Lever: Should always be in neutral when starting the engine. The lever is mounted on the .... During this mileage a slight falling-off in engine power may develop, in which case it is beneficial to lightly grind-in the valves and re-set the valve clearances. No engine or ...
BASIC A40 INFORMATION. What year is my Austin? If it is a Dorset (two-door sedan) it was made in 1947 or 1948 or possibly early 1949. If it is a Devon (four-door sedan) it was made from 1947-1951. If it is a pick-up, countryman, or panel delivery it was made from 1947-1956. Where was it made? Austins were made in ...
Missing: tappet clearance
Feb 19, 2016 - 4 posts - 3 authors
To adjust valve clearances you want to arrange for the cam follower to be on the back side of the cam. This is very simple, especially on cars fitted with starting handles. All you need to do is turn the handle until the valve to be adjusted is fully open then turn the handle one complete turn and you are now on ...Missing: 1948 devon
https://www.ebay.co.uk > ... > A40 Model Car Manuals and Literature
Results 337 - 384 of 393 - Models covered: A40 1947-49, A125 Sheerline 1947-49, A135 Princess 1947-49, A70 1948-49 & A90 1948-49. Printed from a scan of the original onto A4 paper. Datasheet for Austin. Includes such information as firing order, carb settings, valve timing, tappet clearances, plug gaps and tyre ...
You cannot replace the main bearings without removing the engine. only the rod bearings are replaceable if the oil pan will clear chassis for access to crank shaft. Why do you need main bearings on a 2007, these bearings should be good for 500,000 miles. what happened? (run without oil?)
I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't have to remove the engine/transmission, split the trans from the engine, remove the TC or clutch/pressure plate, (you should have drained engine oil and auto trans oil before doing this), remove the oil pan, remove the rear most main bearing cap, rotate a new seal into place, replace rear main bearing cap, torque, etc. and reassemble.
Worst case you may have to remove harmonic balancer and front timing chain cover, front seal, release all the connecting rod caps and main bearing caps, remove the crankshaft, replace the rear main seal and reassemble. It's a 1966 engine...you should consider replacing the front timing chain with a roller chain as well as rod and main bearing inserts if you have to do all this.
When doing major work a shop manual is a wise investment, but if you cannot find one, I suggest joining an online forum for your make. If that doesn't work, try begging info from a machine shop that builds these engines--should be several. Sorry I don't have the details you seek.
Main bearing replacement (there are four main bearings in your V6 engine) is MAJOR work. The engine must be removed from the vehicle and almost completely disassembled to get to the main bearings. If the bearings have 'spun' (likely), the engine will require machining to correct.
Unless you have a LOT of mechanical experience, this is not something a DIYer will be able to do. I'd strongly recommend getting a rebuilt engine and have it installed, if the van is worth keeping. It will probably be cheaper than having yours repaired.
You can't. To replace the main bearings you need to remove the crankshaft. To remove the crankshaft you must remove the flywheel. To remove the flywheel, you must remove the transmission. The transmission is part of the engine mounting system. Just buck up and pull the whole works. Chances are you will need to re-bore the mains anyway if you have spun any of the main bearings. That cannot be done with the engine in the car.
I'm not sure if this is the right part of your car but, are you talking about the rear seal on the engine for the crankshaft?
Rear Main Oil Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Fig. 1: Rear main seal installation for the 2.3L and 2.5L engines
Fig. 2: Removing the rear main seal
Fig. 3: Installing the rear main seal on the 2.9L engines
If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and installed on a work stand.
Remove the starter.
Remove the transmission from the vehicle, following the procedures in Section 7.
On a manual shift transmission, remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc following the procedure in Section 7.
Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate.
Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal. Punch the holes on opposite sides of the crankshaft and just above the bearing cap to cylinder block split line. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars and pry against both screws at the same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of wood against the cylinder block to provide a fulcrum point for the pry bars. Use caution throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal surface.
Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.
Clean, inspect and polish the rear oil seal rubbing surface on the crankshaft. Coat a new oil seal and the crankshaft with a light film of engine oil. Start the seal in the recess with the seal lip facing forward and install it with a seal driver. Keep the tool, T82L-6701-A (4-cyl. engines) or T72C-6165 (6-cyl. engine) straight with the centerline of the crankshaft and install the seal until the tool contacts the cylinder block surface. Remove the tool and inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged during installation.
Install the engine rear cover plate. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to the specifications listed in the torque chart in this section.
On a manual shift transmission, install the clutch disc and the pressure plate assembly following the procedure in Section 7.
Install the transmission, following the procedure in Section 7.
Crankshaft and Main Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. CAUTION The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your and and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the cooling system and engine crankcase.
Remove the engine from the vehicle.
Remove the crankshaft front pulley, front cover, timing chain and sprockets, cylinder head, oil pan, oil pump and intermediate driveshaft.
Remove the rear oil seal cover bolts and remove the cover.
Remove the piston assemblies.
NOTE: Mark the connecting rods and bearing caps so they can be installed in the proper cylinders.
Remove the main bearing caps and bearing.
Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase, so No. 3 thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged.
Remove the main bearing inserts from the engine block and bearing caps.
NOTE: For cleaning purposes, the oil gallery and coolant drain plugs can be removed. To install:
Wash the cylinder block thoroughly to remove all foreign material and dry before assembling other components. Check to ensure all oil holes are fully open and clean. Check to ensure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Clean the mating surfaces of the crankcase and each main bearing cap.
Install the main bearings in the cylinder block. Note that the center front bearing is a thrust bearing and the front upper bearing has a small "V'' notch on the parting line face.
Lubricate the bearings with clean engine oil.
Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces.
Check the clearance of each main bearing as outlined in this section.
After the bearing has been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings. Install the bearing cap in their original locations . (refer to numbers on caps). The caps must be installed with the arrows pointing to ward the front of the engine. Oil the bolts and tighten to specifications. Repeat the procedure for the remaining bearings.
NOTE: Turn the crankshaft to check for turning torque. The turning torque should not exceed 4.5 ft. lbs. (6 Nm).
Install the pistons and connecting rod caps. Check clearance of each bearing, as out lined in this section.
After the connecting rod bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings.
Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Pull the piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal.
NOTE: Guide the rod to prevent crankshaft journal and oil cooling jet damage.
Install the connecting rod cap. Align the marks on the rods with the marks on the cap, and tighten the nut.
After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the side clearance between the connecting rods on each connecting rod crankshaft journal.
Install the rear crankshaft seal and cover. Tighten the bolts to 5–7 ft. lbs. (7–10 Nm).
Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal.