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How to remove bearings

How do I remove rearbearing main engine of a 1937 Austin 7

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  • Austin Master
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1937? are you kidding?
rear mains can be 2 types. (split or not split)
and my on line Austin , pages, are blank.
you should buy a book on this car, really.
remove engine
drop pan
pull crank and bearings.

how do you know its bad.?

Posted on Apr 22, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Rear barring an seal replaced


I'm not sure if this is the right part of your car but, are you talking about the rear seal on the engine for the crankshaft?

If so:

Rear Main Oil Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Rear main seal installation for the 2.3L and 2.5L engines 85553306.gif
Fig. 2: Removing the rear main seal 85553307.gif
Fig. 3: Installing the rear main seal on the 2.9L engines 85553308.gif
If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and installed on a work stand.
  1. Remove the starter.
  2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle, following the procedures in Section 7.
  3. On a manual shift transmission, remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc following the procedure in Section 7.
  4. Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate.
  5. Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal. Punch the holes on opposite sides of the crankshaft and just above the bearing cap to cylinder block split line. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars and pry against both screws at the same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of wood against the cylinder block to provide a fulcrum point for the pry bars. Use caution throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal surface. To install:
  6. Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.
  7. Clean, inspect and polish the rear oil seal rubbing surface on the crankshaft. Coat a new oil seal and the crankshaft with a light film of engine oil. Start the seal in the recess with the seal lip facing forward and install it with a seal driver. Keep the tool, T82L-6701-A (4-cyl. engines) or T72C-6165 (6-cyl. engine) straight with the centerline of the crankshaft and install the seal until the tool contacts the cylinder block surface. Remove the tool and inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged during installation.
  8. Install the engine rear cover plate. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to the specifications listed in the torque chart in this section.
  9. On a manual shift transmission, install the clutch disc and the pressure plate assembly following the procedure in Section 7.
  10. Install the transmission, following the procedure in Section 7.
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Oct 07, 2010 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

1 Answer

Replacing crankshaft pulley/balancer assy procedure. 1994 Merc Topaz 2.3 4cyl.


Crankshaft and Main Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. CAUTION
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  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system and engine crankcase.
  3. Remove the engine from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the crankshaft front pulley, front cover, timing chain and sprockets, cylinder head, oil pan, oil pump and intermediate driveshaft.
  5. Remove the rear oil seal cover bolts and remove the cover.
  6. Remove the piston assemblies. NOTE: Mark the connecting rods and bearing caps so they can be installed in the proper cylinders.
  7. Remove the main bearing caps and bearing.
  8. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase, so No. 3 thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged.
  9. Remove the main bearing inserts from the engine block and bearing caps. NOTE: For cleaning purposes, the oil gallery and coolant drain plugs can be removed. To install:
  10. Wash the cylinder block thoroughly to remove all foreign material and dry before assembling other components. Check to ensure all oil holes are fully open and clean. Check to ensure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Clean the mating surfaces of the crankcase and each main bearing cap.
  11. Install the main bearings in the cylinder block. Note that the center front bearing is a thrust bearing and the front upper bearing has a small "V'' notch on the parting line face.
  12. Lubricate the bearings with clean engine oil.
  13. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces.
  14. Check the clearance of each main bearing as outlined in this section.
  15. After the bearing has been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings. Install the bearing cap in their original locations . (refer to numbers on caps). The caps must be installed with the arrows pointing to ward the front of the engine. Oil the bolts and tighten to specifications. Repeat the procedure for the remaining bearings. NOTE: Turn the crankshaft to check for turning torque. The turning torque should not exceed 4.5 ft. lbs. (6 Nm).
  16. Install the pistons and connecting rod caps. Check clearance of each bearing, as out lined in this section.
  17. After the connecting rod bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings.
  18. Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Pull the piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. NOTE: Guide the rod to prevent crankshaft journal and oil cooling jet damage.
  19. Install the connecting rod cap. Align the marks on the rods with the marks on the cap, and tighten the nut.
  20. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the side clearance between the connecting rods on each connecting rod crankshaft journal.
  21. Install the rear crankshaft seal and cover. Tighten the bolts to 5–7 ft. lbs. (7–10 Nm).
  22. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal.

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1 Answer

Need troque valve for main bearing and piston rod motor 6G72 3000 ?


The info I have at had shows 60ft pounds for the Main Bearing Cap Bolts & 34ft Pounds for the Connecting Rod Bearing Cap nuts. For Bearing cap the sequence is as follows: When looking at underside of engine (bearing cap or Mono-block) and front of engine (harmonic balancer) to your left.

8 - 4 - 1 - 5

7 - 3 - 2 - 6

I hope this may have helped,
Tom

Oct 16, 2009 | 1994 Mitsubishi Montero

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