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They are standard thread, and very tight. If you are facing the bolts from the back of the caliper, you turn counter-clockwise to loosen. If you are facing the caliper from the front you would turn them clockwise. You may need a very large breaker bar and socket to get them loose.
whenever I do a brake job - I always use a big C-clamp to compress the cylinder. sometimes it is easier to also open the air bleeder while you are compressing, ( a bit messy - but works ) -- just remember to bleed all the air out when you are done.
For the rear you need to turn the piston as you crank with the C clamp. It's a lot easier with the right tool. Any good parts store has the tool. The tool to use is a universal brake caliper tool, I picked mine up from Pep boys for $10 bucks. The tool fits on a socket wrench and you turn it clockwise to depress the piston into position.
If everything is apart and you don't have an extra car, just used a pair of sturdy needle nose pliers to get int the groves and twist, no pressure needed.
Tork it down just enough to get the caliper back on. Once it is all bolted back up you will pull many many times on your e-brake handle to tighten the piston back up against the new pad.
Good luck, but try to use the tool.
There is a tool that you can buy or rent at the parts house that you can connect to a hand tool EG: 3/8 rachet to use with a tool to compress the caliper while you turn the rachet. You will see some raised teeth on the calliper piston for the tool to bite on. Since the rear brake is used to lock the parking brake it has to have a self adjust to compensate for the brake pad wear. EG: Old school drum brakes adjust when you back up depressing the brakes and letting off while the vehicle is rolling allows for the adjuster to reset the brake shoe clearance.
if there is a cable and spring attached to the caliper then it is the twist back kind. you need a special tool to rotate the piston back and do not force it. it will ruin the caliper. and also some cars one will turn clockwise and one will go counter clock wise i dont think this is the case with your car but if it doesnt want to turn back try changing the direction.
Most Fords I've worked on have a screw-in rear caliper design. Look at the caliper piston - do you see two notches on the face, across from each other? Those are the keyholes for screwing the piston back in. AutoZone rents/loans the piston retractor tool (leave them the full value of the kit, about $40, take it home and use it, then return it and get 100% of your money back). Simply fit the proper sized key disc onto the tool and screw it back into the caliper, and you're done.