Question about 2007 Toyota Yaris 1.4

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2007 Yaris Air/ Heat Barely Blowing

First it started this winter and the heat would blow but not very well and then it would just stop blowing. This occurred for about a week and then it starting working fine again. This is now starting to happen again with the air conditioning. It will blow and then stop. It is also not blowing on the levels 1-3 but barely on 4, most times. We just changed out the cabin air filter and this started to occur right after. Not sure where to start but I need air conditioning as I live in the desert but am poor. What can I do to help fix this problem?

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If the motor is running, and you just can't feel the air it may be that when the filter was changed something fell in and is blocking the airflow. If on the other hand the fan motor is not blowing at all you likely have a bad switch or motor.

Posted on Apr 21, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: heater blowing cold air with coolant, fine with plain water

it sounds like the heater core is clogged bad if u know someone with a air compressor put a air nossel on it that you pull the trigger to blos air in to the heater core after you take the lines off i had to do this before on a jeep cherokee it did the job

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

  • 2007 Answers

SOURCE: Toyoto Yaris air conditioning fixed but not working after 1 week

It has probably leaked out again. Take it back, and tell them to find the leak this time.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: A/C will suddenly send out heat. Fiddling with knobs seems to help. What's wrong?

You have a broken wire connection between the temperature control knob and the circuit board behind the center dash console. Vibration causes the failure and once the control knob gets loose the solder connection fails.

For someone that knows how to remove the dash unit and can re-solder a couple of new wires this fix should take no more than 1 hour. Make sure that you apply loctite to the heat control knob spindle nut when you re-assemble it.

The dealer quoted me 750 dollars to fix this issue and I found out that it's a common failure for this year. I fixed mine virtually for free but it took some tools and about an hour of my time.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: I have a problem with the heat in my 99 4 runner.

When was last flush and thermostat replaced? Also, it may sound crazy but, when I have a partially clogged heater core, which I suspect you do, I usually will disconnect the hose at the heater core, and connect a drill operated pump from hardware store (about $10) to the heater core, and circulate C.L.R through it before putting it all back together. I usually set it up to pump through the core and back into a pail or similar, and then reverse the hoses to allow flow opposite way as well, then I plug lower inlet to core, and fill with C.L.R, and let it sit overnight if I have time, just to clean out as much calcium clogged up in there as I can. Saved me replacing 2 or 3 heater cores so far, that had little or no heat at idle, prior to cleaning, but had good heat after.

Posted on Dec 22, 2009

  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: Toyota avensis 2007 heat not

check heater tap under bonnet and make sure it opens when controls set to hot and engine running

Posted on Mar 10, 2011

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2007 yaris door lock, radio stays on, and key wont turn occasionally I think these 3 problems are related.... but maybe just #1 and #2: 1 - After turning off the car, the radio stays on for a number of seconds after the driver door is opened. It used to turn off immediately when the door was opened. This is not a big deal, but might give insight to #2, which started happening more or less around the same time. 2- After turning off the car, removing the key from the ignition switch, and opening the driver side door to exit the car, I usually use the door mounted electronic lock switch to lock the doors, because the car does not have remote key fob. This method has worked for years. Recently, however, the switch will move the lock, then immediately will unlock the door, refusing to lock the door while the door is open. After a number of seconds... 5-15 or so, it will usually let me lock it. Thisi is the exact same behavior it does when the key is still in the ignition, and you try to lock the doors with the driver side door open. Because of 1 and 2, I believe that the car might be sensing that the key is in the ignition switch sometimes when it isn't there. #3 - my wife recently had an episode where she could not get the key to turn the ignition switch. she tried for 30 minutes before it would turn. She tried all the old tricks of wiggling the steering wheel and trying to move the shift lever etc in case the interlock mechanism was just not adjusted quite right. finally she got it to turn. Thoughts?

Mar 01, 2017 | 2007 Toyota Yaris 1.4

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