Question about 2007 Toyota Yaris 1.4
First it started this winter and the heat would blow but not very well and then it would just stop blowing. This occurred for about a week and then it starting working fine again. This is now starting to happen again with the air conditioning. It will blow and then stop. It is also not blowing on the levels 1-3 but barely on 4, most times. We just changed out the cabin air filter and this started to occur right after. Not sure where to start but I need air conditioning as I live in the desert but am poor. What can I do to help fix this problem?
If the motor is running, and you just can't feel the air it may be that when the filter was changed something fell in and is blocking the airflow. If on the other hand the fan motor is not blowing at all you likely have a bad switch or motor.
Posted on Apr 21, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
it sounds like the heater core is clogged bad if u know someone with a air compressor put a air nossel on it that you pull the trigger to blos air in to the heater core after you take the lines off i had to do this before on a jeep cherokee it did the job
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
You have a broken wire connection between the temperature control knob and the circuit board behind the center dash console. Vibration causes the failure and once the control knob gets loose the solder connection fails.
For someone that knows how to remove the dash unit and can re-solder a couple of new wires this fix should take no more than 1 hour. Make sure that you apply loctite to the heat control knob spindle nut when you re-assemble it.
The dealer quoted me 750 dollars to fix this issue and I found out that it's a common failure for this year. I fixed mine virtually for free but it took some tools and about an hour of my time.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
When was last flush and thermostat replaced? Also, it may sound crazy but, when I have a partially clogged heater core, which I suspect you do, I usually will disconnect the hose at the heater core, and connect a drill operated pump from hardware store (about $10) to the heater core, and circulate C.L.R through it before putting it all back together. I usually set it up to pump through the core and back into a pail or similar, and then reverse the hoses to allow flow opposite way as well, then I plug lower inlet to core, and fill with C.L.R, and let it sit overnight if I have time, just to clean out as much calcium clogged up in there as I can. Saved me replacing 2 or 3 heater cores so far, that had little or no heat at idle, prior to cleaning, but had good heat after.
Posted on Dec 22, 2009
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