Question about 1992 Geo Metro

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Injectors or distributor not firing

New coil,distributor

Posted by Anonymous on

1 Answer

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  • Geo Master
  • 20,706 Answers

So now its timed wrong, right? double failure.

no engine option stated, wow. 1.0L or 1.3?

rule 1 on all EFI gas cars

no spark ?the ECU sees this? and cuts fuel. ! by design.

so spark,is first after good spec. compression.

check spark first. to all cylinders.

compression over 150psi?

a timing belt slip causes, like 80 psi, retarded bad cam.

so>>> stop skipping 60k tuneups and the new belt>????

?

if spark is good and compression , next is FUEL.

does it run on test FUEL for for 3 seconds? (spray induction port)

if not ?back up to my above list. BINGO on above.....!@!!!!

runs on test fuel for 3sec.? yes so,......



so is the ECU >CEL flashing 12s, all is well> no DTC\'errors?

flashing 12s it is.....

then

check fuel pressure using a real tool called a GAUGE>

to spec.



that is the order. no other works unless LUCKY

avoid luck, and wild guesssing.do the tests.

ask

Posted on Sep 14, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 42 Answers

SOURCE: my car isn't firing. I changed my ignition coil,

Without looking at the diagram on our model Is suspect the pickup in the distributor has gone bad. In the early type distributors the pickups are prone to go bad but ground the wire from the coil to the cap and remove the cap, have a friend turn the engine over with the starter for a few seconds, check that the rotor button is turning !

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

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My 1985 Mercedes 190e isn't getting fuel to the distributor, why


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First, do as others have suggested and be sure the distributor is turning. If not, check that the distributor is seated properly and the tabs at the base go into the slot on the end of the camshaft. After that, I suggest checking the ground wires, especially the ones for the intake and head to the chassis. Check fuses, relays and all electrical connections to along the engine wiring harness.

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89 k1500 towed, now fuel injectors dont fire. read all wired to and from ecm, check good. ecm will start another truck.


Check the ECM fuse and then check for any loose wire connectors, especially at the fire-wall area, the ignition coil, and the distributor. Then check for battery voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil when the ignition key is in the "On" or "Run" position, and there should also be battery voltage running over from a wire that is also connected to the positive side of the ignition coil, and then that wire will run over from the ignition coil to the ignition module inside of the distributor, and if there is battery voltage there at the ignition module, then either the ignition module or the pick-up coil inside of the distributor will be the most likely suspects for the cause of the problem.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is actually what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like it could also be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.


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My 95 gmc will not atart i changed the fuel tank


If you do have fuel pressure, but there is no fuel getting into the cylinders to run the engine, then the engine does not have an injector signal or pulse to open the fuel injectors.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

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