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My 1989 mercury grand marquis wouldn't go over 35 in drive I have to drive it in the second drive position

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It would be my guess that your Catalitic converter is plugged off. Being an 89 model I would say it would be time for a new one. I am not recommending that you punch the clay out of it but if you make a hole through the honeycomb and it runs alright, then I would replace it. Be sure to get all the pieces you break loose out of there cause it will go on back to the muffler and stop it up.It is best to remove the converter to do this.
I hope this leads you to solving your problem.

Posted on Apr 22, 2014

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: rear shocks on a 1996 Mercury Grand Marquis

2 bolts on the top of shocks and 1 bolt on the bottom but the top 2 bolts are a pain in the neck

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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SOURCE: 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis hesitation and jolting from 35-45 mph

Sure, the more the throttle and the longer its open the more gas is being injected so if the spark is not there it will spotter. I think you have nothing to loose with an ignition tune-up. It'll be more economical than taking it to a mechanic and still ending up with the same problem. You should change the fuel filter also it could be clogged and there is'nt enough fuel delivered at these speeds. You can also try a fuel injector cleaning solution the kind you pour in the gas tank. This might work for you.

Posted on May 19, 2009

  • 144 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis and I can't turn the wipers.

this is a very common problem on these vehicles. the wiper motor has a park switch built into it that fails. replace the wiper motor and this will stop problem. hope this info helps you!

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 mercury grand marquis headlights will cut out

My 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis has the same problem. We found out it was the headlight module located under the dash above the gas pedal. The black box has wire connectors coming out of the back. Hitting the box worked for a little while, then I had to reach in the back and wiggle the wire harness. The dealership wants 500.00 to replace the unit. I consider Highway Robbery! They have installed a faulty piece of equipment on my Luxury car that could easily be life threatening but we know it won't be recalled until someone dies because of it. My husband was able to remove the unit and looked it over it had two circuit boards and he was unable to visibly see any problem or loose wire. He cleaned the connectors and used some electrical terminal grease on the wires, this improved it for a short time. The problem still exsists. I have sat for 30 minutes or more waiting for them to go through the On/Off cycle till they stay on for the 45 minute ride home from work. I have beat the box with my flashlight (maglights handle the abuse, my fingers and nails don't) till it came loose from the brackets that hold it. I leave my car running while pumping gas, short shopping trips and start it 20 or 30 minutes early before leaving for work. It is frustrating and dangerous. If this is the kind of quality in our American made cars it's no wonder they needed a BailOut! The only thing we have found to "fix" it is to find a used part that could possibly have the same problem shortly down the road or pay the theives at the dealership to replace it.

Posted on Dec 31, 2009

  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: where are the spark plugs located on a 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis

There are eight COPs (coil-on-plugs) to remove. Using a 7mm or 9/32" socket, remove each bolt securing each COP to the intake manifold on top of the engine. Remove all eight COPs, and the spark plugs are underneath. When replacing the spark plugs, use only the proper Ford/Motorcraft plugs, even if they cost twice as much as the aftermarket ones. You will avoid further headaches this way. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 30, 2010

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How to replace the drive belt in a mercury grand marquis 1989


Posted by Asker under the 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis for a 1989 model.

Sorry for the delayed response....
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered question.
I do not know if you still need the answer, but am answering it in case you do.


I also do not know if you have the 5.0L or 5.8L Engine or what options (AC/No AC, etc.).

Click on the following free, direct Link. It has the Serpentine/Drive Belt Diagrams for the 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis for both the 5.0L and 5.8L Engines and engine options (AC/No AC, etc.).

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1989/make/mercury/model/grand_marquis/1989_mercury_grand_marquis_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

"HOW TO":
Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner:
1. Find the Tensioner.
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
4. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.

Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!


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