Question about Mazda Protege
First make sure the brake shoe linings are ok and the shoe adjusters are free . slacken off the handbrake cable then adjust brake shoes ,then pull handbrake leaver on three clicks tighten cable to feel a slight drag at the wheels, release brake leaver and check wheels are free to turn.
Posted on May 31, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It is most likely caused by one of the ABS wheel speed sensors, those little cylindrical nipples on the back of your rotors with the cable attached to them. One way to confirm it is to read out the OBD2 codes for the ABS system, but there are some checks you can do. Visually check all four cables and sensors , and make sure there is no build up on the sensors. Make sure that the connector they plug into has good connections. Look at the wheel speed sensor and make sure the gap between the sensor head and the sprocket is the same on all four wheels (should be no more than a mm). Disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable and use an ohm-meter to check the resistance of all four sensors (they should all be similar, but don't remember the value exactly). There is a way to just disable the ABS by pulling out the 60A fuse, but if you do that you may have to plug in a code reader and use a grounding jumper on the ABS electical access box (don't remember which pin) to reset the ABS faults, otherwise you won't be able to drive around like that because your engine rpm at high speeds will behave erratically. Also, do not drive around without fixing this problem or bypassing ABS completely because it could get you into an accident. My ABS problem was intermittent, and the ABS would sometimes kick in on completely dry pavement as soon as I touched the break pedal, it almost caused me to rear-end a car on couple of occasions.
Posted on Jul 30, 2008
on the rear calipers there is a 14m bolt on the back of the caliper beside the parking brake braket.
remove bolt on the inside there is a hex screw. as you turn it the piston gose in or out.
check calipers for damage.
Posted on May 13, 2009
Give me a call.
1) I have owned a Mazda protege 5 for the last 4 years
2) I have done 2 complete brake jobs on it
3) I am a braking systems engineer.
4) I know what I am doing. I have done 100's of brake jobs on lots of different vehicles.
Biggest issue with the protege is getting the piston back in.
Look at the back of the caliper.
There is a thin head bolt on the back.
You need to take this off the caliper and reach inside with an allen head (I think it's 5mm). Then turn the set screw in there out a few turns. Then you can push the piston back in with a regular piston push back tool. Dont worry if the set screw comes out. Just thread it back in. But you HAVE to at least start it back in. It is part of the auto-adjust mechanism. After you do your brakes you may notice that your parking brake has A LOT of play. After you work it a few times it will tighten back up just fine.
Clean averything well and grease the slide pins with a good quality waterproof grease. There is special grease for slide pins.
Posted on Jun 04, 2009
Where the handbrake lever is,it will be covered by a boot of some sort.Peel this back and beside the lever will be either a rod with a nut on it,or it will have a recess for a screwdriver.with the h/brake off,do the adjustment by tightening it.When it's right, the h/brake should have to be pulled so 7 'clicks' can be heard.Hope this helps
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
Click on the following free direct Link. It has the correct Serpentine Belt Diagrams for your 1997 Mazda Protege depending on your Engine Size (1.5L or 1.8L) and Options (AC/No AC etc.).
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
4. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them
Posted on Apr 01, 2010
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