Question about 2002 Ford Explorer
Never remove a battery cable while the engine is running , you could do that with a generator , a alternators rectifiers diodes will burn out in no time flat, if the battery tests ok , there is a bad connection , clean the battery posts and terminals till they are shiny clean, and make sure the other ends of the cables are tight.
Posted on Oct 17, 2015
This could be an issue of a bad starter. The starter can be tested but it needs to be taken off the vehicle and tested on a machine which puts a load on it to see if it is working properly. Auto Zone and Advance Auto will test the starter fr free.
Posted on Apr 21, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The clicking is the Starter Solonoid not getting enough CCAs from the battery to start it.
While running - the alternator should be able to charge the system to 14.4V.
11 volts you are experiencing tells me your alternator is faulty.
Your dash and other items were turning off/on while driving because the voltage probably dipped below 8.4v.
Your vehicle runs off the alternator power once started. The battery is only there to get the engine spinning initially.
A backyard mechanic's way to test the alternator is to start the vehicle - then remove the positive wire on the battery (coming from the alternator).
** If the vehicle stays running - the battery is problematic - probably a dead cell - have it LOAD tested at a local parts shop for free.
** If the vehicle dies shortly after removing the + battery wire - the alternator is failing - and replacement is necessary.
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Posted on May 21, 2009
When u try to start the engine, do the lights on the dash board turn off and come back when u release the key. If the do the battery connections are loose or the battery needs charge. If u start the engine and the lights don't turn off they stay lit something is wrong with the starter or the relay for the starter not working
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
A FORD MACHANIC HAS TOLD ME THAT IN FACT THE KEY HAS TO BE RECODED. MY SITUATION IS EXACTLY THE SAME. HE SAID TO RECODE THE KEY I HAD TO TURN THE IGNITION TO THE RUN POSITION, THE SECURITY LIGHT ON THE DASH WILL FLASH RAPIDLY AND CONTINUE TO FLASH FOR 15 MINUTES . WITHIN FIVE MINUTES AFTER THE LIGHT STOPS FLASHING I MUST TURN OFF THE IGNITION FOR ONE SECOND AND TURN IMMEDIATLY BACK TO THE RUN POSITION FOR 15 MORE MINUTES. THE LIGHT WILL GO OFF AGAIN . WITHIN 5 MIN. I MUST TURN OFF THE IGNITION FOR ONE SECOND AND TURN BACK TU RUNNING POSITION. 15 MINUTES LATER REPEAT STEPS AGAIN AND THE KEY WILL BE REPROGRAMMED, AND STSRT THE CAR. GOOD LUCK MY CONTACT IS A FORD MASTER MECHANIC.
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
Before you go changing out the starter check for a burnt out fusible link going to the starter it will look like a wire but acts as a fuse and they burn in two just like a fuse. The symptoms you just describe are those of a burnt fusible link.
Posted on Mar 26, 2010
SOURCE: Power windows on ford explorer
The main reason for this concern, especially if the door is used quite often and/or the vehicle has higher mileage is a break in the wiring going from the drivers door to the body. If you access this area by pulling the protective rubber back, shine a flashlight on these wires and look for a break (open circuit). look for shiny spots from the open copper wire. The stress from the door opening and closing is what causes the break and often you will find more than one broken wire. It will usually be a heavier gauge wire that doesn't flex as easily. Good luck, if you need more info, please ask.
Posted on Apr 12, 2011
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