Question about 2006 Mercury Mariner

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Mercury mariner shakes then dies when coming to a complete stop

When slowing down, and coming to a stop the engine does a shake then dies, no check engine light is on and it only happens occasionally

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: why does my '02 mountaineer keep dying on me?

I'd be looking at the idle air control valve on side of throttle body. It regulates idle under load conditions such as when turning, AC on, heater etc, brakes applied etc, & steps idle up to maintain proper idle.When this goes faulty it lots of times doesn't send a code. You may get away with just pulling it off and cleaning plunger & port it comes out of with throttle body spray cleaner,It's worth a try before you replace.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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  • 28 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 mercury mariner. stupid tail light assembly.

they are hard to take off sometimes, you are doing it right just keep willing it it will come off, there is 2 gromits that hold it into place might have a little dirt into the plunger.

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

  • 151 Answers

SOURCE: My 1997 Mercury Mystique dies

Check the AIS (idle speed motor) the bypass passage may be clogged with crankcase vent sludge. This is a problem I found many vehicles

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Mercury Sable-shakes with acceleration

You describe this as an acceleration problem however, if the car does throw a check engine light it should be recorded in system memory so it can be pulled by scanning with and OBDII scanner. It sounds as if the car is being starved for fuel on acceleration. Check the fuel lines for kinks as well as check the fuel pressure. The problem could be a faulty fuel pump that has yet to completely die.

Posted on May 21, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2001 Mercury Sable the check engine light

Hi, this is an issue that concerns the coil pack on your engine. It is malfunctioning. and, i recommend testing to make sure of thsi issue.

Check for dirt, corrosion or damage on the terminals and repair as necessary.

Measure coil primary resistance between ignition coil pin 4 (B+) and pins 1 (coil 2), 2 (coil 3) and 3 (coil 1) .


Resistance should be 0.3-1.0 ohms. If resistance is out of specifications, replace the coil pack. If resistance is within specifications, proceed to secondary windings testing.



Coil 1-cylinders 1 and 5 Coil 3-cylinders 2 and 6 Coil 2-cylinders 3 and 4


Resistance should be 12.8-13.1 kilohms. If secondary resistance is not within specification, replace the coil pack.

You can jump this link below for a good look at a diagram of the coil pack.

Click Here


Posted on Jul 11, 2009

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