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Re: Flywheel inspection cover location.
There is a small cover on the bottom center of the transmission. It's held in by 2, 8mm bolts.
To change the timing belt: first place the right side of the vehicle on
a jack stand and remove the right front tire. Remove the plastic cover
inside the wheel well to expose the harmonic balancer. Remove the
serpentine belt (standard 3/8" rachet will set in the belt tensioner to
relieve tension). Remove the harmonic balancer (19mm). Place a jack
under the engine on the right side of the vehicle, then remove the
engine mount from the top of the fender well, (17mm deep well socket
and 17mm wrench required) it is not necessary to remove the mount from
the side of the engine. Remove the timing cover, (10mm) it has 2 nuts.
Loosen the timing belt tensioner, (10mm) then pry it away to relieve
the tension. Slide the timing belt off of the cam gear.
position the new belt, the cam gear has a arrow on it, and the cylinder
head has a small dot. Align the arrow with dot, and make sure it is
aligned (the arrow must point up). The crank gear has a notch and the
engine has a groove to align the notch. Again, make sure the notch and
groove are aligned (they again will be up). Place the new timing belt
in position around the crank gear, the water pump and belt tensioner
and leave the slack at the top. Again relieve any tension from the belt
tensioner, and slide the belt on to the cam gear. Place a slight bit of
tension on the belt and tighten the belt tensioner. Use the 19mm bolt
from the harmonic balancer and turn the engine 2 complete turns and
verify that the cam gear and crank gear are in their proper positions
and aligned with the dots and notches. After 2 complete turns of the
engine, and verifying everything is still aligned, re-assemble in
reverse. No further adjustment is necessary.
Note:There is no
timing adjustment for this vehicle, and if you are not properly aligned
on the cam gear and crank gear it will not run properly.
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If the car is an automatic, it will have a thin metal flex plate, rather than a regular flywheel. If the flexplate gets a crack in it, it would cause a bit of noise. See if there is an inspection plate on bottom front of transaxle. Remove the inspection cover to look at the flex plate. Turn the engine over to view the flexplate all around. Look for cracks, maybe a loose or missing mounting nut where torque converter mounts on flex plate. If you see nothing, leave the inspection cover off, and run the engine and listen closely for a problem from that area. Leaking oil, eh? Don't know if related, but while looking at the flexplate, check if motor oil is leaking out the rear main crankshaft seal. It will be fitted to the rear engine block, in front of the flex plate. Oil would be dripping off the rear of engine, or maybe collecting at bottom of bell housing, evident when inspection cover is removed.
If the clutch assembly is to be reused, matchmark the pressure
plate and the flywheel so they can be assembled in the same position.
Install flywheel holding tool T84P-6375-A or equivalent, in a
transaxle mounting hole on the engine and engage the tooth of the
holding tool into the flywheel ring gear.
Fig. Fig. 1: Install a flywheel holding tool in a transaxle
mounting hole on the engine, and engage the tooth of the tool into the
flywheel ring gear
Loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts one turn at
a time, in a crisscross pattern, until the spring tension is relieved,
to prevent pressure plate cover distortion.
Support the pressure plate and unfasten the retaining bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc from the flywheel.
If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating (blue discoloration)
or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.
Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, release
bearing, pilot bearing and the clutch fork for wear. Replace parts as
If removed, install a new pilot bearing using a suitable installation tool.
If removed, install the flywheel. Make sure the flywheel and
crankshaft flange mating surfaces are clean. Tighten the flywheel
retaining bolts to 71-76 ft. lbs. (96-103 Nm) on the 1.8L engine or
54-67 ft. lbs. (73-91 Nm) on the 1.9L engine.
Clean the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces thoroughly.
Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position
and support them with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool. If the
clutch assembly is being reused, align the matchmarks that were made
during the removal procedure.
Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts. Tighten
the bolts in the correct sequence to 13-20 ft. lbs. (18-26 Nm). Remove
the alignment tool.
Fig. Fig. 2: Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the
installed position and support them with a clutch aligning tool
Fig. Fig. 3: Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts to specification in the sequence illustrated
If the release bearing was removed, lubricate the release fork
where it contacts the bearing and install the bearing in the fork.
Install the transaxle assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
Bleed the hydraulic clutch system, if needed.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Road test the vehicle and check the clutch for proper operation.
No it will NOT bend valves on this particular engine, if it goes out of
time. I would replace BOTH the timing belt and the drive belt at the
same time, since both are very inexpensive, even from the Ford dealer.
Line up both timing marks on both the cam and crank sprockets in the 12
o'clock position. The marks are very easy to see, once you remove the
timing belt cover. Hope this helps.