Question about Cars & Trucks
I am thinking that the clutch plate is in back to front and the plate centre is hitting on the flywheel bolts . If you have an inspection plate under the clutch have some one depress the clutch and see if you can spin the clutch plate ( in neutral naturally). If this is the case then the fix is box out and re-install the plate properly.
Posted on Apr 21, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
SOURCE: Heavy clutch pedal operation
Unfortunately, this model uses a clutch cable. The internal shaft (in the bell housing) eventually suffers from galling and crud accumulation. This puts enormous strain on the cable which may even break. The cable is self-adjusting but occasionally may need a little manual help. If you undo the nut (far lower right side of the box in American cars) and the clips holding the fuse box to the firewall you can lift it aside and see the cable where it exits the firewall. Grasp the large spring that surrounds the sheath and gently tug upwards. You should hear a click or two or three as the adjusting ratcheting mechanism operates. If you do not, tug a little more forcefully, but do not **** the cable as you can cause the ratcheting mechanism to fail. You will now have less free play of the clutch pedal and easier operation of the clutch. Order a new cable now and carry it in your trunk. You will be needing it soon.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
work it back and forth with your hand and you will get pedal after a while then bleed like you would brakes get help so one can pump and the other can bleed
Posted on May 24, 2009
Probably the arm that holds the rtelease bearing in the bell housing has slipped out of place. Get someone to depress the clutch while you check the arm is not loose. If the cylinders are working then its most likely the arm is disconected. If you are lucky you may get it put back in place by looking through the inspection hole but most likely you will have to seperate the engine and gearbox. Sorry I havent better news for you.
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
It sounds as though either the throw out bearing or pressure plate are bad. The grinding makes me want to lean towards the pressure plate.
Posted on Nov 10, 2009
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