Question about 2009 Ford Escape
All U-tube videos on the topic that I managed to find suggest the front strut removal in order to replace CV joint assembly. In the past I managed to do that in 92 Pontiac Transport minivan: I disconnected the sway bar, strut top mount, extracted the ball joint stud from the knuckle clamp and managed to replace the front ball bearing and naturally I had a full access to the CV joint assembly. The strut stayed attached to the knuckle. With the front end lifted and the steering wheel locked in far left position I could turn the right wheel hub away enough. Do you think I will be able to repeat the trick on the 09 Escape?
Not all struts are adjustable there . Most times the strut is held on to the stub axle with two bolts one is off set if adjustable . center pop the bolt and housing so it be refitted in the same place.
Posted on Nov 29, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
either put a jack under the strut (if you can do so safely and raise the strut or use a good pry bar to pull down on the A arm. make 100% sure the car is well supported with jack stands etc.
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
Change the sway bar links. They're pretty cheap, and some aftermarket ones come with grease fittings.
Mine is making a very loud creaking noise when I turn the wheels (to the right). I just bought new sway bar links today because I had a similar problem on my wife's focus. When I finish changing them, I'll let you know how it comes out....
If that doesn't fix the creaking noise, I'll change the front strut. (A friend suggested that this would create this noise)
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
theres 2 ways too fix that!! one is get some brass shiw stock it comes in a roll get about .005 thick! wrap several layers around the knuckle pin where is goes into the socket and then tigthen it up that will remove the play also you can heat the socket with a torch and then take a hammer and shrink the hole opening but if you call beards salvage in tulsa okla they can and will sell/ship you one
Posted on Jan 22, 2010
Testimonial: "Good idea about wrapping the pinch bolt. thanks for the confidence boost on using a BFH to beat it tight, I thought it would work."
Once you remove the locking hub, the hub and bearing unbolt. There are two different styles of locking hubs. One is held on with a large snap ring that you can pinch with your hands. Once that's out you can pull the locking hub off. The other style bolts on with about 6 or 7 small allen or torx head bolts. Once you remove the bolts the hub pulls out also. They can sometimes get stuck and will require some force.
The axle is also a bit tricky to remove if you've never done it before. You will need two fairly large pry bars and pry between the u-joint ears and the axle tube evenly on both sides to push it out. The axle seal is very tight, also pricey if you damage it, so be careful.
Posted on Jul 06, 2010
it is most likely a bad wheel bearing, but it maybe the other side, some times the noise will carry threw the front end and make you think is the other side, we have a rule in my shop we never replace one wheel bearing we alwise replace both bearing on the end we are working on if the customer does not want that then we send them to another shop, the reason we do this is for just the thing you have going on it just saves allot of problems, and we never use cheep hubs, never use auto-zone or advanced or O'rileys, we had to warranty 12 hubs from auto zone in one year, i have never had to warranty a napa hub in 25 years, it just does not pay to save a few dollars. and all though it most likely is a wheel bearing there is a small chance it might be a carrier bearing in the front differential it would also go away when going around a corner but if you remove the wheel bearing and turn them by hand you can feal if the bearing has a bad spot. if the bearings feal good then pull the front differential.....GOOD LUCK
Posted on Mar 13, 2011
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