Question about 1997 Mazda Protege
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are two A/C refrigerant lines. The small line is your high pressure line and the larger line is your low pressure line.
Start at the fire wall and follow the "large " low pressure line to the compressor. The low pressure charge port will be some where on that line.
DO NOT try to recharge on the high pressure side ( small line )
Good luck, let me know.
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
I would try a flush. If its set up like my 96, and it likely is, changing the trasmission gasket and filter will be difficult. Mine has a medal plug on the bottom and takes an allen wrench, and possibly a breaker bar. If you take out this plug, drain, flush then refill via the dipstick tube and a funnel, it may help. You may need to do this a couple of times due to fluid still in the torque converter, pan, etc.
Lucas is good stuff, I would add it again when I was done. The tranny fluid should be pink, mine looked like used oil black before I flushed it.
Also, when adding the new fluid, shift slowly up and down through all of the gears to lube well and check your fluid levels after 100 miles or so, as sometimes a bubble will form and make it look full....then not after it pops.
Posted on Dec 23, 2008
You've got to loosen the mounting bolt first, which is located behind the pulley itself. Rotate the pulley until the large opening allows access to the bolt, then use a socket with a narrow head to turn the bolt, just until it starts to turn freely.
Then there are two locknuts on the adjuster; one right near the mounting bolt and one underneath towards the middle of the pump. Loosen both of those, and then *finally* you'll be able to turn the adjusting bolt that faces the front end of the car on the end of the adjuster arm. It's a long bolt; just keep turning that thing until the belt loosens enough to come off the pulley.
Best of luck!
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
This link is to a "How To Replace an EGR Valve" video. While he is doing this on a Ford F150 pickup, the tips he gives you should translate over to your Mazda easily, especially as he talks about the stickers under the hood designed to tell you where your EGR valve and solenoid is located. Give it try...I think it will work for you.
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
SOURCE: need to no step bye
HOW TO INSPECT EGR VALVE
Before attempting to troubleshoot or repair a suspected exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system on a vehicle, the following conditions should be checked and be within specifications.
Before attempting any tests of the EGR system, visually inspect the condition of all vacuum hoses for kinks, bends, cracks, and flexibility. Replace defective hoses as required. Check vacuum hose routing. (See the underhood decal or the manufacturer's service manual for correct routing.) Correct any misrouted hoses. If the emissions system if fitted with an exhaust-gas-recirculation valve position (EVP) sensor, the wires routed to it should also be checked.
If the EGR valve remains open at idle and low engine speed, the idle operation is rough and surging occurs at low speeds. When this problem is present, the engine may hesitate on low-speed acceleration or stall after deceleration or after a cold start. If the EGR valve does not open, engine detonation occurs. When a defect occurs in the EGR system, a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is usually set in the powertrain control module (PCM) memory.
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
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